Seb Bouin on Akira, Grading DNA, and French Climbing History

Seb Bouin on Akira, Grading DNA, and French Climbing History

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!

Seb Bouin is one of only three climbers who have climbed 5.15d (9c). Following in the footsteps of leading French climbers, he established his testpiece, DNA, in 2023 in the Verdon Gorge. It may not be a coincidence that this came shortly after his Vintage Rock Tour, in which he climbed all of the firsts in France from 7c+ to 9a+, including the first three 9as from Fred Rouhling, Hugh, De L’autre Côté du Ciel, and the most famous and most controversial of the trio, Akira.

In this episode, Seb and Kris discuss collaboration versus competition, taking grades personally, DNA, and where Akira and Fred Rouhling fit into French climbing history.

Check out more here!

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Episoder(91)

Kurt Albert and the Birth of Sport Climbing

Kurt Albert and the Birth of Sport Climbing

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s! As the end of the 1970’s neared, climbers, more and more, the world over, were wondering the same thing. “How hard can we climb? In this setup epis...

25 Nov 202422min

Season 2: The 1980s

Season 2: The 1980s

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s! Climbing, in the 1990s, as you’ve already heard, was all punk rock and new wave, rising standards and superstar climbers pushing each other forward...

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BONUS | Remus Knowles on the Climbers and Ascents We Missed in Season 1

BONUS | Remus Knowles on the Climbers and Ascents We Missed in Season 1

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s! Remus Knowles runs https://climbing-history.org/ , and since he's a fan of the show, I asked him to come on and tell me which climbers and ascents ...

19 Aug 202434min

BONUS | Matt Samet on Climbing Mags from the '90s to Now

BONUS | Matt Samet on Climbing Mags from the '90s to Now

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s! Matt Samet is a legend of the climbing magazine world, having worked for Climbing, Rock & Ice and Alpinist as an editor, writer and general voice o...

5 Aug 202424min

Climbing in the '90s: Cultural Shifts and Lessons Learned from Season One

Climbing in the '90s: Cultural Shifts and Lessons Learned from Season One

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s! Sometimes you need time away to realize what you were in the midst of.  In this episode Kris reflects on the season, where the true cultural shifts...

11 Jun 202431min

Eva Lopez on Women in Sports, Rivalries, and What Josune Means to Climbing History

Eva Lopez on Women in Sports, Rivalries, and What Josune Means to Climbing History

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s! Eva Lopez is one of the top Spanish climbers in history. While she is largely known as one of the world’s foremost researchers on training for clim...

22 Apr 202457min

Josune Bereziartu Goes Honky Tonkin'

Josune Bereziartu Goes Honky Tonkin'

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s! Basque superstar Josune Bereziartu first tied in as the 80’s were changing into the 90’s, after seeing a documentary showing two women climbing in ...

15 Apr 202433min

Chris Schulte on the Magic of Fontainebleau, Climbing Lifelist Boulders, and Catherine Miquel

Chris Schulte on the Magic of Fontainebleau, Climbing Lifelist Boulders, and Catherine Miquel

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s! Chris Schulte is a boulderer who is obsessed with the lines and shapes of climbing. He fell in love with Fontainebleau many years ago based on a ph...

8 Apr 20241h 15min

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