EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith

EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith

Anak Verhoeven is a professional climber from Belgium and one of the most accomplished female sport climbers ever. We talked about growing up with her mom as coach and dad as trainer, why she quit competitions, dealing with a strange injury that plagued her for 3+ years, winning her first World Cup, building 9a+ endurance with mediocre training facilities, making up rules in the gym, her onsighting strategy, being public about her faith, and much more!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anak-verhoeven

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:14) – Living in a small motorhome with her parents on long trips

(00:06:40) – Anak’s 9a and harder resume, and her level of fame in Belgium

(00:10:03) – How Anak makes a living

(00:13:51) – The advantages of doing everything herself

(00:15:48) – How her mom and dad became her coach and trainer

(00:17:58) – Practicing her autograph as a kid

(00:20:13) – Competing in her first international competition

(00:22:34) – Struggling in early competitions, and navigating disappointment

(00:25:54) – Setting the bar high

(00:27:47) – Family meetings

(00:31:24) – Rest days, exercises, and hair washing

(00:37:04) – Leading her first route at age 4

(00:41:08) – Getting injured and falling in love with climbing

(00:44:19) – The variety within climbing

(00:50:50) – Why Anak quit competitions

(00:56:51) – Anak’s strange arm injury

(01:06:46) – Working on her shoulder mobility

(01:10:21) – Keeping her arm injury a secret

(01:14:08) – Current status of her arm

(01:17:05) – Understanding what folks with chronic illness go through

(01:20:59) – What does Anak miss the most about competitions?

(01:25:46) – Longer trips, and the stress of competitions

(01:30:43) – Winning her first World Cup in Arco

(01:34:05) – The satisfaction of sending Ciudad de Dios pa la Enmienda

(01:42:15) – Getting fresh air during competitions

(01:44:59) – Anak’s training shed

(01:47:57) – Training on the same routes for 3 years, and motivation vs. fancy facilities

(01:53:01) – Anak’s strategy for onsighting comp routes

(01:57:11) – Making up rules at the gym

(02:01:36) – How Anak built her endurance

(02:07:15) – Mental endurance

(02:11:27) – 9b and trad climbing goals for 2024

(02:14:43) – Why she is open about her faith

(02:22:33) – How do climbers react to her faith?

(02:29:46) – The pressure I felt as a kid to spread faith, and moving away from religion

(02:33:09) – How Anak thinks about sharing her faith, and her lack of judgment toward other people

(02:34:57) – Choosing her faith for herself

(02:37:57) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Jaksot(385)

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a soc...

23 Maalis 1h 55min

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

Melissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the o...

9 Maalis 1h 30min

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helpe...

23 Helmi 2h 4min

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

Today, I am resharing one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded. This episode with Tom Randall was originally aired on Patreon in Feb, 2022. We talked about how to use your friends to dis...

9 Helmi 1h 48min

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience ...

26 Tammi 1h 18min

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

Chris Schulte is an elite boulderer known for bold first ascents, compression mastery, and a thoughtful approach that prioritizes style over grades. We talked about his evolution as a climber, develop...

12 Tammi 2h 25min

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

Christian Beckwith is the former editor of The American Alpine Journal and Alpinist Magazine, and the creator of the award-winning podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. We talked about the formation of the ...

15 Joulu 20251h 49min

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

Carol Simpson returns to the podcast to talk about life after 80 years old, and everything she does to stay healthy and climb hard. We talked about making the move to Salt Lake, discovering Dr. Peter ...

1 Joulu 20251h 48min

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