EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journey from mountaineering to sport climbing, bolting Jumbo Love and other famous routes, why money equals freedom, his passion for surfing, reflections from almost drowning, aging gracefully, and much more.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne

Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/randy-leavitt

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:12) – The Dune Cracks

(00:05:52) – Offwidth climbing

(00:09:17) – Traumatic hip belays

(00:14:35) – Bolting Jumbo Love

(00:20:01) – From mountaineering to sport climbing

(00:26:03) – Book of Hate

(00:31:11) – Planet Earth

(00:33:39) – The first cell phones

(00:39:47) – Money, freedom, & happiness

(00:42:45) – Surfing vs. climbing

(00:54:15) – The vision of new routing

(00:56:52) – A new area in Baja

(01:01:16) – Thinking ahead to 40

(01:13:44) – Almost drowning

(01:21:50) – Aging gracefully

(01:27:54) – Hallux limitus

(01:34:24) – Getting remodeled

(01:39:21) – Piloting

(01:49:55) – More route development

(01:53:36) – The Grand Canyon

(01:56:26) – Time

(02:00:06) – Don’t squander your days

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Jaksot(396)

EP 306: George Lowe — Getting Too Close to the Edge, His “Magnificent Failure”, and Climbing at Age 82

EP 306: George Lowe — Getting Too Close to the Edge, His “Magnificent Failure”, and Climbing at Age 82

George Lowe is a Colorado-based climber and alpinist who was awarded the 2026 Lifetime Achievement Award by the Access Fund. We talked about his early life, what keeps him returning to the mountains a...

16 Syys 1h 27min

EP 305: Dr. Mohammad Ashori — The 5 Things That Will Keep You Climbing for Decades

EP 305: Dr. Mohammad Ashori — The 5 Things That Will Keep You Climbing for Decades

Dr. Mohammad Ashori is a board-certified family medicine physician, health coach, and rock climber. We talked about the importance of putting on muscle, how much rest we need between training sessions...

31 Elo 2h 14min

EP 304: Justen Sjong Returns — Unique Challenges for Tall & Short Climbers (And What Actually Helps)

EP 304: Justen Sjong Returns — Unique Challenges for Tall & Short Climbers (And What Actually Helps)

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) returns to the podcast to discuss the unique challenges of being tall or short in climbing. We talk about the disadvantages tall climbers face, how injury risk and t...

18 Elo 2h 12min

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

Adam Ondra is back on the podcast to discuss his incredible winter bouldering season, including four V15 (8C) flashes. We talked about why the best sport climbers can keep up with the bouldering speci...

13 Heinä 1h 43min

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

Aaron Shamy has an inspiring story: he won the X Games in the ‘90s, took a 15-year hiatus from climbing, got out of shape, and then began a 6+ year comeback that culminated in sending the hardest rout...

29 Kesä 1h 42min

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

Matt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who...

8 Kesä 2h 10min

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

25 Touko 1h 1min

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Touko 2h 9min

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