Boy Smells’ rebrand fail, Amorepacific's manufacturing pivot, LVMH earnings, and Pact Collective’s Carly Snider on becoming beauty’s biggest recycler

Pact Collective isn’t the first company to try to solve the beauty industry’s waste problem. But in four short years, it’s already become the most successful. “It feels like a really exciting time for the industry, but we've still got a lot of work to do,” Carly Snider, executive director of Pact Collective, told Glossy. “We [as an industry] are creating 120 billion units of beauty packaging globally and only a fraction of those are recycled or reused.” This widely-shared statistic was one catalyst for Pact’s launch in 2021 as a nonprofit industry collective founded by retailer Credo Beauty and clean cosmetics brand MOB Beauty. Today, Pact has many pillars. First, it serves as a recycling alternative to city-run curbside bins and private recycling initiatives. The concept is simple: Educate consumers about their products’ end-of-life while creating a data-driven, closed-loop system that reduces waste through in-store collection bins and consumer-friendly mail-back programs. Pact has been embraced by the industry and actively has 3,300 collection bins across the U.S. and Canada in retailers like Sephora, Ulta Beauty, Credo Beauty, Nordstrom and many more. It also works with brands like L’Oréal USA, Fenty Beauty and Summer Fridays. Growth across its packaging collection program has helped the company meet volume collection requirements for its biggest program of 2024: a closed-loop manufacturing initiative called New Matter. The initiative debuted in September with pumps made from recovered plastic. “I didn't imagine this level of growth so soon,” Snider said. “Right now we have 150 members across the entire supply chain [including] brands, retailers, packaging suppliers, media, you name it. … If you're working within this space, we want you to have a seat at the table. We want to have your voice heard, because it's an all-hands-on-deck situation.” In today’s episode, Snider discusses Pact’s growth, including its plans to get recycle bins into non-retail locations like colleges and libraries and exactly what happens to the empty packaging it collects. Snider also addresses how brands and retailers can lessen their environmental footprint and educate consumers on recycling nuances. But first in today’s episode, Glossy senior reporter Emily Jensen joins host Lexy Lebsack to address the industry’s top headlines. This includes backlash over buzzy fragrance brand Boy Smells' new rebrand; Sephora as a bright spot in LVMH’s disappointing earnings; and Amorepacific’s plans to reshore manufacturing to the U.S. amid mounting tariffs.