145: Stephen Kirby of Hogshead Has Some Strong Opinions on Cask Ale

“When we opened, everyone said ‘You can’t open a brewery with three beers,’” says Hogshead founder Stephen Kirby. “And I think the answer to that is ‘You can if they’re good ones.’ I think the truth’s out—I only make three beers. You’ve got guys who want to make everything. I make bitter, I make porter, I make mild.”

That approach of doing only a few things but with an obsessive focus is highly unusual in today's beer market, where everyone seems to want everything, all the time. But Kirby is straightforward about his motivations—he’s in it to brew the beer that he loves and wants to drink. True to his British roots, that beer is what he grew up with—traditional cask ales. Kirby doesn’t hold back, sharing his views on a wide range of subjects, including:

• Why brewers should have the “bollocks” to name beers what they are
• Selecting hop varieties for balance in flavor and aroma
• Underpitching English strains at slightly lower temperatures for proper yeast flavors
• Innovation versus tradition
• British versus American takes on IPA
• How carbonic acid impacts hops bitterness
• Building small beers with big body while avoiding the impression of sweetness
• How water chemistry affects English beer styles
• Mash regimens to benefit head retention
• Using controlled oxidation through the life of a beer to tell a story
  

“I brew the beer that I love, and I invite you come come over and have a pint,” Kirby says. “As a business model, it sucks, but it’s good for the soul. If you’re not making the beer you love, why the fuck are you doing it?”

This episode is brought to you by:

G&D Chillers (https://gdchillers.com): Nearly 2,000 breweries across the US, Canada & Mexico partner with G&D Chillers. Innovative, Modular Designs and no proprietary parts propel G&D ahead as the premier choice for your glycol chilling needs. Breweries you recognize—Russian River, Ninkasi, Jack's Abby, Samuel Adams and more—trust G&D to chill the beer you love! Call G&D Chillers to discuss your project today or reach out directly at GDChillers.com.

BSG (https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/): Third in the new BSG Hops Solutions portfolio, HS-1228 takes you all the way to the heart of the West Coast. HS-1228 is bursting with pronounced tropical fruit like mango, pineapple, citrus, and pine characteristics that bring out a classic West Coast hop character. Designed for late kettle or dry hop for various hop-forward styles. Learn more about BSG Hop Solutions online, and look for more BSG Hop Solutions releases coming soon!

Brewmation (https://www.brewmation.com/): With nearly 20 years of innovation and experience, Brewmation specializes in electric, steam, and direct fire brew houses, complete cellar solutions, and automated controls for the craft brewing industry. From ½ barrel to 30 barrel systems, Brewmation puts you in control to design a brewery that fits your needs and brewing style. Whether you’re starting a new brewery, upgrading your cellar, or just need some parts to keep you up and running, Brewmation has you covered. Visit them at Brewmation.com to get started.

Spike Brewing (https://spikebrewing.com/craft):
Born out of a basement in Milwaukee a decade ago, Spike has grown to become a leading manufacturer of premium-quality brewing equipment. So, if you’re looking for a reliable system for home or a commercial-grade Nano for your brewery, this is the time to buy! Spike is offering CB&B listeners a special 10% off all three-vessel system purchases, while supplies last. Visit spikebrewing.com/craft and enter the code CBB at checkout. Spike Brewing—pursue what’s possible.

ABE Beverage Equipment (https://ABEequipment.com):
ABE Beverage Equipment provides complete brewing and packaging solutions worldwide. Whether you are just starting out or are looking to expand, ABE offers brewhouses, tanks, canning lines and more for small to medium sized brewers. ABE has equipped over one thousand breweries worldwide and has the best customer service in the industry. Call ABE Beverage Equipment at 402-475-BEER or visit ABEequipment.com to learn more. That’s ABEequipment.com for complete brewing and packaging solutions.