EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization

EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization

Jesse Firestone is back on the podcast! We talked about his injury this spring and finding silver linings, why he focused more on weight training than climbing this summer, shifting his priorities to spending more time on projects, biggest lessons from the past three years of coaching, Adam Ondra’s hip flexibility, how to become more flexible through climbing, why visualization is an excellent use of your time, and much more!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Zach Emery

Support on Patreon:

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestone-returns

Nuggets:

0:00:00 – Intro/Ads

0:05:53 – Jesse’s Winter and Spring season, his wrist injury, and his trip to Fontainebleau

0:11:53 – Losing muscle, falling into our own pitfalls, and a sales pitch for having a coach

0:15:45 – Stoic philosophy, finding the silver lining, and why Jesse climbed a lot less than usual over the summer

0:18:49 – Being stubborn about rock climbing, and plans to balance that with more weight lifting

0:20:32 – Why Jesse is moving toward less volume and more projecting

0:25:31 – Work capacity

0:29:48 – My summer trip, and what I would do the same vs differently to prepare next time

0:34:22 – Chasing the highs, and the reset of a bad injury

0:37:29 – Being content with not sending my project in Rocklands, and Jesse and I talk about struggling to find inspiration there

0:43:53 – What I’ve realized about active rest days in Rocklands

0:47:57 – Why Jesse didn’t set any goals on paper in 2023

0:49:57 – Thai

0:51:25 – How Jesse’s coaching business has evolved, and how he uses Instagram

0:56:03 – “A good coach knows when to be a window and when to be a mirror.”

0:56:33 – Lessons from Jesse’s first few years of coaching

1:05:23 – How coaching has led him to being a more compassionate person

1:08:43 – Summary of coaching lessons

1:09:33 – Intent vs. content of training

1:12:55 – Adam Ondra’s hip flexibility, writing a book, and how to improve flexibility through climbing

1:22:10 – Having a positive attitude about your flexibility

1:29:55 – 3 benefits of visualization for climbers

1:39:53 – The nuts and bolts of visualization

1:46:47 – Jesse puts his coach hat on and encourages me to climb faster

1:51:47 – Visualization for onsighting, and Adam Ondra’s onsight of Just Do It

1:54:20 – Wrap up

Avsnitt(388)

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Apr 2h 7min

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, ...

14 Apr 54min

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first asce...

7 Apr 1h 46min

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a soc...

23 Mars 1h 55min

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

Melissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the o...

9 Mars 1h 30min

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helpe...

23 Feb 2h 4min

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

Today, I am resharing one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded. This episode with Tom Randall was originally aired on Patreon in Feb, 2022. We talked about how to use your friends to dis...

9 Feb 1h 48min

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience ...

26 Jan 1h 18min

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