TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)

TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)

A while back I asked for questions about training and climbing for an episode that Coach Alex and I did together. Well, we got so many questions that we decided to do an entire episode answering some more of them.

That full Q&A episode can be found on our Patreon page, but today I published half of the episode as a Sneak Preview on the main podcast so you can get some of that good beta, too.

If you'd like to get bonus episodes from TrainingBeta, you can go over to Patreon where you can subscribe for as little as $5/month and get at least 75 minutes of extra stuff EVERY MONTH.

You'll get a Nutrition Bite, which is a short episode every month from me all about a specific nutrition topic, as well as a Team Roundtable, where Matt, Alex, and I will discuss a specific training/nutrition topic or do a Q&A like this one.

There are also old episodes in the vault that I've never published, and I'll be publishing those on Patreon soon.

CHECK OUT THE PATREON EPISODES Team Q&A: Training and Nutrition

In this sneak preview, we answered the following questions:

  • When to transition from indoor to outdoor climbing
  • When to transition from toproping to lead climbing
  • General nutrition advice for a climber who doesn't want to log their calories/macros
  • Training adaptations for very short climbers and very tall climbers

The questions we covered in the full episode on Patreon are:

  • Antagonist muscle training and how to work it into your program
  • What a typical performance block looks like in terms of maintenance training and time spent trying to send
  • Performance phase nutrition (for when you're trying to send stuff)
  • How to avoid takeout food with a very busy schedule

Avsnitt(250)

TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups

TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those videos to teach her clients about their own climbing. You can p...

19 Juli 20231h 24min

TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance

TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance

Back in April, I published an episode with Thomas Cunningham all about how he trains efficiently as a busy dad and ER physician to be able to send up to 5.14c projects in only 10-15 days outside climb...

13 Juli 20231h 25min

TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster

TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster

In this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous "checklist" that he uses when he's projecting a route (or a boulder – but usually routes). As a coach, often Matt's job is...

24 Maj 20231h 12min

TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt

TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The "energy systems" we're talking about are po...

10 Maj 20231h 39min

TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing

TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing

Steep Climbing Workshop May 2nd, 2023 Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 2-hour presentation + Q&A on how to train for steep climbing on the wall and off the wall. She'll be using a series of videos and o...

26 Apr 20231h 18min

TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3

TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3

A couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent and really researched about training, nutrition, and persona...

19 Apr 20231h 25min

TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins

TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins

In this interview I talk with professional ice and mixed climber, Majka Burhardt, about her new book, More. In it, she describes the transition she went through from being a full-time pro climber to h...

30 Mars 20231h 10min

TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger

TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger

Climbing Fitness Breakthrough Series Before we get started, Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to increase your overall climbing fitness. She will do 4 weekly 90-minute zoom ca...

15 Mars 20231h 31min

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