EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen

EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen

This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into climbing, how to train pinch and sloper strength, why Eric started PhysiVantage, and the importance of collagen for building stronger fingers.

Discount code:

“NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-part-2

Nuggets:

01:23 – Differences between Eric’s training vs. his sons, and why his sons played football

11:40 – Maintaining climbing strength during football season

15:08 – Patreon Question from Eli (advice for parents getting their kids into climbing)

21:20 – Exposing kids to a variety of climbing styles

22:53 – Patron Question from Jordan Cannon (5.14, or free climbing El Cap?), and Eric’s first 5.13c

27:53 – Another Question from Jordan (would you rather see your kids climb 5.15, or free a hard El Cap route)

32:50 – Patron Question from Gunter (how to train pinches and slopers)

39:12 – Learning from other experts and coaches

40:52 – What Eric is most excited about in training for climbing right now, and the Moonboard and other system walls as a game-changer

45:16 – Proper nutrition, PhysiVantage, and protein

50:02 – Crush

52:00 – Collagen, and vegan and whey protein

56:48 – How I think about taking supplements, and replacing beer with collagen ;)

1:01:15 – Why we should eat collagen separate from meals (when we can), and collagen vs. protein timing

1:10:42 – A life’s journey

1:14:07 – Gratitude

Avsnitt(381)

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience ...

26 Jan 1h 18min

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

Chris Schulte is an elite boulderer known for bold first ascents, compression mastery, and a thoughtful approach that prioritizes style over grades. We talked about his evolution as a climber, develop...

12 Jan 2h 25min

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

Christian Beckwith is the former editor of The American Alpine Journal and Alpinist Magazine, and the creator of the award-winning podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. We talked about the formation of the ...

15 Dec 20251h 49min

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

Carol Simpson returns to the podcast to talk about life after 80 years old, and everything she does to stay healthy and climb hard. We talked about making the move to Salt Lake, discovering Dr. Peter ...

1 Dec 20251h 48min

EP 287: Domen Škofic — The Red Bull Plane Project, Rediscovering Passion in Flatanger, and Trying Silence 9c

EP 287: Domen Škofic — The Red Bull Plane Project, Rediscovering Passion in Flatanger, and Trying Silence 9c

Domen Škofic is a Slovenian professional climber and a 5x World Cup gold medalist. We talked about his Red Bull Plane Climb project, skydiving, building a climbing gym with his father, retiring from t...

17 Nov 20251h 43min

EP 286: Steve Moss — Why Discomfort Fuels Breakthroughs, Double V12 Days at Age 40, and 455 V-Points in 24 Hours

EP 286: Steve Moss — Why Discomfort Fuels Breakthroughs, Double V12 Days at Age 40, and 455 V-Points in 24 Hours

Steve Moss is a high-level boulderer and the co-founder of a brewery and pizzeria in Spokane, WA. We talked about finding climbing at age 24, his breakthrough season climbing three V12s in less than t...

3 Nov 20252h 47min

EP 285: Tyler Stableford — Finding More Joy in Climbing, Breaking Plateaus, and Inputs Over Outcomes

EP 285: Tyler Stableford — Finding More Joy in Climbing, Breaking Plateaus, and Inputs Over Outcomes

Tyler Stableford is a lifelong climber and psychotherapist specializing in trauma resolution and treatment-resistant conditions. We talked about how to find more joy in our climbing, whether high perf...

20 Okt 20251h 57min

EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

Dr. Jared Vagy returns to the podcast and is joined by three physical therapy students and graduates, Sarah Kremer, Dawson Freeze, and Michael Larson. We talked about three recent articles covering th...

6 Okt 20251h 24min

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