EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes

EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes

In Q&A 4, I tackle patron questions about Hueco round 2 and other goals for 2022, my plans for V12 and 5.14, how my trip to Leavenworth went and plans to return, my favorite features in the van, dating on the road, my remote working setup, what I’ve learned from nearly 100 episodes of the podcast, and making sense of conflicting advice.

*Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below.

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  • Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, and David Lahaie

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-4

Nuggets:

0:00 – Intro and updates

7:04 – My Climbing / Training / Goals:

7:14 – Oskar: Tips for night climbing?

14:07 – Taylor: Plans for Hueco round 2?

16:53 – Casey: Hueco tick list? And what about Rifle?

17:57 – Casey: Do you prefer to write your own training programs or to have a coach?

18:46 – Casey: Outdoor vs. indoor bouldering performance? Does it matter?

21:27 – Casey: Do you like night sessions? Is it hard to fall asleep after?

22:52 – Jimmy: Favorite endurance workout on a home wall?

25:43 – Karl: Do you think kneepads change grades?

33:12 – Tim: Do you ever climb easy stuff for fun?

35:44 – Tyler: Party tricks vs. helpful training?

38:14 – Tyler: Dream areas or routes in Canada?

38:55 – Andrew: What makes a limit boulder problem “limit”? What makes a perfect repeat “perfect”?

42:32 – Shanna: What will you implement from the PCC?

46:24 – Jordan: Have you dabbled in trad or multi-pitch climbing?

49:44 – Eric: What is the softest 5.14 in the US? Why aren’t you trying it now?

51:09 – Nolan: How have you moved past plateaus?

53:08 – Nolan: Have you been on JDI yet?

54:35 – Conor: Can you tell us about your early climbing and training? What would you change?

58:20 – RJB: Where are you on your climbing journey?

1:00:57 – Luke: Goals for 2022? How do you go about goalsetting?

1:09:06 – Drew: Did you come back to try The Practitioner? And how did it go?

1:12:55 – David: Goals in Leavenworth?

1:14:37 – Nutrition / Weight Gain:

1:14:45 – Karl: Does starch count as sugar?

1:17:33 – Angelo: I’m embracing my body type and getting stronger, but when will I stop gaining weight?

1:23:15 – Vanlife / Current Lifestyle / Personal Life:

1:23:24 – Tyler/Ethan/Luke: Favorite van features? What did you bring but haven’t used?

1:28:03 – Tyler: Can you describe work station in your van? What is your internet setup?

1:31:50 – Matt: Any mice in the van?

1:32:54 – Jordan: How long have you had your van? Thoughts on dirtbagging now vs. pre-van?

1:34:47 – Michael: Pee bottle tips?

1:36:54 – Logan: Why did you choose your van?

1:39:27 – Howard: Health insurance as a vanlifer?

1:41:53 – Nolan: Have you settled into the lifestyle as a full-time vanlifer podcast superstar yet?

1:43:59 – Desiree: What are some favorite experiences you get to have living on the road? Pitfalls? Tips?

1:49:29 – John: How do you handle long winter nights in the van?

1:50:42 – Alexandra: How is a dating life when living in a van?

1:53:56 – Shanna: Are you living in the van nonstop? Do you think you can do it indefinitely?

1:56:49 – John: Coffee or tea? Method of brewing? Any tats?

1:57:45 – Brian: Vanlife product you just can’t get behind?

1:58:42 – Brian: What have you given up for vanlife that you miss?

1:59:35 – Brian: What alternate life would you be content with?

2:00:41 – Daniel: Do you still play video games?

2:03:26 – Liam: Did you save up money before quitting your job, or say fuck it? Also, what is your climbing story?

2:06:30 – Jonathan: What is your relationship to mindfulness or meditation? How do they affect your life and climbing?

2:10:52 – Fun / Funny / Other:

2:11:00 – Tyler S: Weirdest smell you’ve had in the van?

2:12:03 – Tyler S: Most ridiculous outfit you’ve climbed in?

2:13:27 – Tyler B: Any plans to head out east to climb on southern sandstone? Dream climbing trip?

2:14:49 – Tyler B: Who would you like to spend a climbing with?

2:15:42 – Brian: Other hobbies?

2:17:21 – Brian: Who would you take on a multi-pitch climb?

2:18:18 – Podcasting / What I’ve Learned From Episodes:

2:18:30 – Ryan: You’ve put out nearly 100 episodes—How do you deal with conflicting advice from all of these badass climbers?

2:24:22 – Tyler: If you could collaborate with any podcast, what would it be?

2:25:30 – Tyler: Top 3 podcast guests?

2:26:36 – Finn: What interview do you find yourself organically thinking back to the most?

2:28:23 – Garrett: Has the podcast made you a better communicator? Has it made you more confident when meeting people?

2:31:30 – Wrapup

Avsnitt(382)

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

Today, I am resharing one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded. This episode with Tom Randall was originally aired on Patreon in Feb, 2022. We talked about how to use your friends to dis...

9 Feb 1h 48min

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience ...

26 Jan 1h 18min

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

Chris Schulte is an elite boulderer known for bold first ascents, compression mastery, and a thoughtful approach that prioritizes style over grades. We talked about his evolution as a climber, develop...

12 Jan 2h 25min

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

Christian Beckwith is the former editor of The American Alpine Journal and Alpinist Magazine, and the creator of the award-winning podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. We talked about the formation of the ...

15 Dec 20251h 49min

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

Carol Simpson returns to the podcast to talk about life after 80 years old, and everything she does to stay healthy and climb hard. We talked about making the move to Salt Lake, discovering Dr. Peter ...

1 Dec 20251h 48min

EP 287: Domen Škofic — The Red Bull Plane Project, Rediscovering Passion in Flatanger, and Trying Silence 9c

EP 287: Domen Škofic — The Red Bull Plane Project, Rediscovering Passion in Flatanger, and Trying Silence 9c

Domen Škofic is a Slovenian professional climber and a 5x World Cup gold medalist. We talked about his Red Bull Plane Climb project, skydiving, building a climbing gym with his father, retiring from t...

17 Nov 20251h 43min

EP 286: Steve Moss — Why Discomfort Fuels Breakthroughs, Double V12 Days at Age 40, and 455 V-Points in 24 Hours

EP 286: Steve Moss — Why Discomfort Fuels Breakthroughs, Double V12 Days at Age 40, and 455 V-Points in 24 Hours

Steve Moss is a high-level boulderer and the co-founder of a brewery and pizzeria in Spokane, WA. We talked about finding climbing at age 24, his breakthrough season climbing three V12s in less than t...

3 Nov 20252h 47min

EP 285: Tyler Stableford — Finding More Joy in Climbing, Breaking Plateaus, and Inputs Over Outcomes

EP 285: Tyler Stableford — Finding More Joy in Climbing, Breaking Plateaus, and Inputs Over Outcomes

Tyler Stableford is a lifelong climber and psychotherapist specializing in trauma resolution and treatment-resistant conditions. We talked about how to find more joy in our climbing, whether high perf...

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