EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real

Eric Hörst is back on the podcast! We talked about his upcoming road trip,  fitting in training around work, sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c at age 59, motivation as the ultimate wildcard, autoregulation and tracking how you feel, what to do when you have a bad training day, and the top 7 most common training mistakes climbers make. Listen to Eric’s original two-part episode:EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1)EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2)Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingThe Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-returnsNuggets:0:03:21 – A wet Spring, and broken holds0:06:43 – Preparing for a long road trip, working on the road, and current work projects0:08:21 – Self-coaching, and figuring out what works for you0:09:19 – Fitting in training around work, cramming before a trip, and maintaining vs. growing a business0:14:02 – Sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c (8a+) at age 59, and how climbing standards are changing0:18:33 – The normalization of hard climbing, burnout in kids, and motivation as the ultimate wild card0:23:57 – Why Eric wanted to cover training mistakes0:32:04 – Training Mistake #1: Going to the gym and not having an intelligent plan of action0:37:21 – Autoregulation, doing the same warmup every session to check in, and tracking how you felt0:42:04 – When to pivot vs. when to stick to the plan0:45:47 – Training Mistake #2: Every training session is a competition with yourself0:50:24 – Bad days happen0:54:26 – Training Mistake #3: Cramming in your training before a weekend or trip0:57:14 – Training Mistake #4: Engaging in inappropriate training while injured1:10:42 – Nutrition for injury prevention1:14:01 – Training Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan1:25:36 – Training Mistake #6: Training your strengths but ignoring your weaknesses1:31:06 – A physical and a mental weakness that Eric is working on in his own climbing1:36:10 – Training Mistake #7: Doing everything right at the gym but getting sleep and nutrition wrong1:43:04 – The wisdom of the current generation of young climbers, stress, and the iPhone trap1:51:02 – Wrap up

10 Heinä 20231h 55min

Ady Wright is a climbing instructor and routesetter based in New York. We met up in Red Rock and recorded a nice long chat in the van, covering her introduction to climbing and routesetting, why she pivoted from veterinary science, being raised by a cautious father, analyzing risk, the benefits of meal prepping, losing her grandmother to cancer, the pressure that comes with opportunity, the rebellious act of existing, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ady-wrightNuggets:0:03:56 – Ady’s breakfast, and serendipitous timing0:05:56 – Ady’s first vacation, and how an outdoor climbing trip fuels routesetting0:13:04 – Her head setter Ryan, and earning her stripes0:18:16 – Learning to set above her level, the complexity of grades, and setting boulders vs. routes0:24:32 – Studying veterinary science, wanting to be a zoo veterinarian, and pivoting to be a full-time climber0:33:03 – Being the first in her family to do many things0:36:58 – Going camping for the first time, and a reminder of how recent slavery was in this country0:40:56 – Going with the flow, and everything in moderation0:44:45 – The benefits of meal prepping0:46:02 – Being hard on herself, and sharing experiences with people that look like her0:49:53 – My conversation with Brittany Leavitt, travel safety, and where the feeling of not doing enough comes from0:54:24 – The pressure that comes with opportunity0:59:22 – Losing her grandmother to cancer, and crying for the things she didn’t get to have1:01:01 – The influence Ady hopes to have on the routesetting industry, and how being cautious has saved her1:06:06 – Privilege layers, and needing to talk with people to actually know them1:09:29 – Writing novels and producing music1:10:57 – Mom1:19:00 – A question from Marie-Louise: When Ady climbs, is she in her body or is it more of an out-of-body experience?1:24:11 – Who inspires Ady in climbing and routesetting1:28:17 – Ady’s goal to make routsetting more accessible1:31:20 – Ady’s climbing goals, and her style1:34:32 – Being intimidated by overhangs1:35:57 – Immersing in a specific style1:37:40 – Lifting weights, and the 3 pieces of advice Ady got from Tyson Schoene1:41:15 – The exercise that helped Ady with her elbow tendonitis1:46:50 – Gymnast tension, and the yin and yang of climbing1:48:26 – PT Day, splits, and recovery1:52:06 – “It’s really expensive to be a great athlete”, and running from coyotes1:54:23 – Thoughts on sponsorship1:58:08 – Stories of walking in New York City2:01:00 – Being in the shelter system for a year2:06:38 – Loving most of New York2:09:18 – What frustrates Ady2:13:39 – Feeling hopeful and falling in love with people2:17:07 – Skateboarding2:19:50 – Getting mentorship from Sam Elias, and learning from each climb2:24:47 – Practice makes better2:29:38 – Believe and validate2:32:58 – The clubhouse

5 Heinä 20232h 40min

Bernd Zangerl a bouldering legend from Austria. We talked about his early climbing and making the 2nd ascent of Dreamtime, some of his proudest FAs, how he recovered from a career-ending injury in 2016, his mindset for highballs, meditation and the power of the mind, believing in love, our impact as climbers, sustainability, and discovering world-class bouldering in the Himalayas.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bernd-zangerlNuggets:0:04:02 – Where we each are in the world, and Bernd’s travels to the US0:05:15 – Magic Wood, and the impact climbers have on the environment0:08:02 – How to pronounce Bernd’s name0:08:53 – Bernd’s background in climbing, a near miss in the mountains, and falling in love with bouldering0:13:21 – The impossibility and culture of bouldering0:15:00 – “Bouldering is the kindergarten, but also the pinnacle of climbing.”0:16:50 – Dreamtime (8C), and learning about hard boulders by reading magazines0:21:25 – Reducing boulders to each single move, and holding positions for training0:24:41 – The bouldering culture in the early 2000s0:27:29 – Finding the most pure motivation in finding and developing new boulders0:29:22 – Spending eight years and 1000+ tries to send First Try (8B+)0:34:02 – What he learned from First Try0:38:56 – Nalle on Burden of Dreams, and the randomness of bouldering0:39:43 – Sending La Proue (8B) in Cresciano, and lightness of the heart0:41:20 – Openness of the heart, Buddhism, and believing in love and the good things of life0:42:57 – Bernd’s childhood, and why traveling is important to him0:44:29 – Traveling with Fred Nicole to Hueco Tanks and Rocklands0:48:00 – Feeling and knowing0:49:41 – Developing boulders in the Himalayas, and finding Rakchham0:57:17 – Why Bernd decided to publish a film about Rakchham, and what it’s like to travel there1:04:06 – Sustainability1:08:39 – How internet changed traveling1:10:34 – Disconnecting1:11:52 – Shangri-La1:13:29 – Working on a guidebook for Rakchham, when to go, and plans to go back1:16:04 – Getting the locals interested in climbing1:20:41 – Bernd’s projects in Rakchham, and the potential and rock types1:25:06 – Doing the FA of Shantaram in Norway1:34:05 – Patron question from Simon, and Bernd’s serious injury in 20161:39:41 – The healing power of the mind1:42:31 – Into the Sun, and Bernd’s headspace for highballs1:50:39 – 29 Dots (14m/45’ highball)1:58:45 – More about his recovery from his injury, and connecting of the East and the West2:03:53 – Bernd’s advice, and brushing2:07:47 – Bernd’s diet and lifestyle2:10:39 – Meditation2:14:59 – Bernd’s unique approach to warming up and finger training2:23:50 – Shake, shake the body2:25:31 – Being pulled into the present

26 Kesä 20232h 31min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Hazel Findlay is back on the podcast to talk about her new course, Performance Hacks. We talk about her top 3 performance hacks, the goal of the course, and Patrons can get a 10% discount code and hear Hazel share some recommendations for me as I try to send my project here in Switzerland.Join the Early-Bird Waitlist for Performance Hacks:go.strongmindclimbing.com/early-birdBecome a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:11:03.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingHazel’s Other Episodes:EP 81: Hazel Findlay (Aug 9, 2021)Reflections Series (for $10 and up Patrons!)

19 Kesä 202350min

Louis Parkinson is a London-based climber and coach and is one of the best in the world at teaching dynamic movement. We talked about the benefits of indoor climbing, how practicing comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing, sending his first 8B in Magic Wood, timing your breathing with hard moves, skill drills for experienced climbers, how to break down dynamic movements, cultivating confidence, and much more!Apply for a job at Easy Expense!Click Here to ApplyLearn more: easy-expense.comCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-parkinsonNuggets:0:04:10 – The culture of indoor climbing0:06:45 – The benefits of climbing indoors, and Louis’ success on short outdoor trips0:10:27 – Rehabbing my bicep tendon injury in the gym, and what I noticed on the rock afterward0:13:55 – London0:15:24 – A week in the life of Louis Parkinson0:20:52 – Beginners try hard0:24:38 – Efficiency, and dancing vs wrestling0:30:18 – How did Louis get the nickname Captain Cutloose?0:34:16 – Louis’ first trip to Magic Wood, and sending the Foxy Lady dyno (7C?)0:38:56 – Riverbed 8B (V13), and his amazing tick list for the trip0:43:30 – Comparing ourselves to our previous bests0:48:04 – How to time your breathing with your climbing0:55:20 – Practicing new skills medium intensity climbs0:58:05 – How Louis thinks about practicing skills1:01:50 – Skill Drill: Sticky hands sticky feet1:06:25 – The Moonboard and Brad Pitt1:08:20 – Skill Drill: Body awareness and understanding compromises1:15:20 – Skill Drill: Using momentum1:17:28 – My experience on Burl Master 5.13c (8a+), and learning about contextual difficulty1:21:05 – Risk, Intensity, and Complexity1:23:47 – How practicing modern comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing1:29:10 – Jan Hojer flashing Jack’s Broken Heart 8A+1:36:22 – How to break down dynamic moves into smaller pieces1:40:18 – Forgetting the details and going for it1:41:58 – The Inner Game of Tennis1:47:17 – How Louis spends his limited climbing time these days1:52:04 – Cultivated confidence1:58:06 – Being intensional with your language2:02:36 – Growth mindset2:04:34 – Wrap up

12 Kesä 20232h 10min

Brittany Leavitt is a climber, backpacker, educator, and the co-founder and CEO of Brown Girls Climb (BGC). We talked about Brittany’s climbing origin story, her unique family upbringing, unmasking and educating about race, teaching kids at the Smithsonian, the mission of BGC, creating more accessible spaces, lessons from her first road trip, using TikTok to stay informed, climbing goals, inspiration, and much more.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brittany-leavittNuggets:0:05:20 – Working from home, and having a home office0:07:38 – Why hasn’t Brittany taken the leap to traveling and climbing full-time while working remotely0:10:20 – Being within community, and Brittany’s dream of part-time vanlife0:15:15 – Brittany’s climbing origin story0:20:24 – Outdoor Afro0:21:04 – Brittany’s unique family dynamic, and having accessibility to the outdoors0:24:06 – Unmasking, adoption as a trauma experience, and educating her family0:31:00 – Protecting your own energy, giving space, and knowing when it’s worth it to argue with someone0:34:25 – Family holiday recitals, and Brittany’s guitars0:37:45 – The crossover of art and climbing, and singing around the campfire0:40:12 – Wanting to be an educator, and teaching at the Smithsonian0:46:33 – Musical theater with the kids0:50:01 – Learning patience and empathy from working with kids0:52:05 – Teaching life lessons through climbing, and working with community kids0:54:15 – How to decide what to say yes to, and passing ideas on to someone else0:58:25 – How Brown Girls Climb got started, and what it has become1:06:26 – The mission of Brown Girls Climb1:07:21 – What it feels like to have a space with people who share your experience1:15:09 – Patron question from Adam: How can we make climbing events (like the Rendezspew and International Climbers Festival) more accessible to diverse communities?1:24:11 – Brittany’s road trip to Bishop and Red Rocks in 2019, and writing a piece for Patagonia1:30:27 – What Brittany wishes she had known before the trip, planning which gas stations to stop at, and safety considerations1:35:11 – Favorite non-climbing memories from the trip, visiting famous movie locations, and first-time van living1:41:55 – Doing her first highball boulder, and favorite climbing memories from her trip1:44:37 – Brittany’s advice for folks who want to go on their first climbing road trip1:50:01 – Brittany’s climbing goals in Rumney and The Gunks1:52:32 – Mountain climbing and adventure goals1:54:24 – Who inspires Brittany1:57:28 – What Brittany wishes people understood more and spent more time thinking about1:59:18 – Getting her news from TikTok2:05:17 – Wrap up and what’s next for Brittany

5 Kesä 20232h 12min

Leo Houlding is one of the greatest adventure climbers of all time. He’s put up new free routes worldwide from the Amazon Rainforest to the remote regions of Antarctica. We talked about his upcoming trip to Baffin Island, his childhood in the UK, using the fix-and-follow system to climb 2000’ big walls with his kids, epic stories from his El Cap days, what he learned from his worst injury, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/leo-houldingNuggets:0:02:54 – Prepping for his trip to Baffin Island0:07:16 – Enjoying the logistics, and planning the food for a month-long expedition for three people0:13:50 – Leo’s beta knowledge for expeditions, and going beyond roads0:16:01 – Leo’s “little issue”, and base jumping off the top of Mount Asgard0:23:56 – The challenge of attempting to free climb Asgard again0:27:29 – Leo’s Instagram cover photo0:29:16 – Writing his book, his mom and dad, and his adventurous spirit as a kid0:33:39 – Leo’s first big adventure climb, Old Man of Hoy0:37:24 – How his life has turned out compared to how he imagined it as a kid0:38:24 – Being born at the right time0:42:45 – Generations in Yosemite0:45:18 – “Climb that goddamn mountain.”0:49:49 – Adventuring with his kids0:53:59 – Using the fix-and-follow system with the kids to climb big walls1:00:56 – Climbing in the Wind River Range with Llamas and the kids1:05:11 – Tips for keeping the morale high for kids1:13:13 – Compromises with kids, and plans to take them out of school for an around-the-world mission1:16:41 – “The days are long but the years are short.”1:17:10 – My travels with my family around South America as a 5-year-old, and seeing the developing world as a kid1:20:34 – A final tip for parents who want to adventure with kids1:22:41 – Rest in peace Ammon McNeely ❤1:23:34 – The Alfa Romeo badge story1:35:41 – Question from Sam Stroh: What are Leo’s thoughts on going ground up on The Prophet?1:42:51 – Getting caught in one of the worst storms in Yosemite history, and doing the first free ascent of The Prophet1:48:41 – Closer to the Edge1:49:29 – The end of his Yosemite chapter1:52:03 – Leo’s accident on Cerro Torre1:56:41 – Leo’s expeditions to Antarctica2:02:11 – Kite skiing2:07:11 – Rock climbing at the end of the world2:08:42 – “I wanted the most hardcore trip ever, and I got it.”2:09:52 – His trip to the Amazon rainforest, and making The House of the Gods film2:13:58 – Dropping loads out of an airplane into the rainforest2:18:21 – Free climbing a new route on Mount Roraima2:20:31 – More about Leo’s book Closer to the Edge, and the film 2.4 about adventuring with kids2:23:35 – Why we should travel to the developing world2:24:41 – Wrap up

29 Touko 20232h 29min

An interesting conversation with Ron Kauk. Enjoy :)Donate to Sacred Rok:sacredrok.orgSupport the Nugget and Sacred Rok:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingRon's Other Episodes:EP 69: Ron Kauk (May 17, 2021)Follow-Up: Ron Kauk (Jul 29, 2021)

25 Touko 20231h 17min