EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real

Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torrNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:00) – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery(00:09:55) – Ollie’s work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery(00:14:25) – Ollie’s thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury(00:20:33) – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie’s funny story about his first interview on Training Beta(00:23:00) – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression(00:26:06) – “What got me here won’t get me there.”(00:28:35) – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A!(00:32:00) – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients(00:39:54) – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients(00:46:10) – Flexibility testing for climbers(00:49:59) – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie’s process of examining movement, joint, and action(00:56:25) – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan’s approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training(01:00:29) – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts(01:13:24) – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower(01:21:00) – Limbic friction(01:22:13) – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”(01:30:20) – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing(01:39:31) – Key exercises for all climbers(01:43:43) – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home(01:45:03) – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?(01:51:59) – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do(01:54:43) – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day(01:56:54) – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement(02:02:17) – Having agency in your recovery(02:03:51) – Leg kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body(02:07:05) – Setting the bar super low(02:08:23) – Staying on the bus(02:11:39) – Ollie’s gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period(02:20:10) – Testing his fingers in Tom’s cellar(02:21:41) – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength(02:28:22) – The secret to finger strength is….(02:31:45) – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing(02:35:16) – Why Ollie doesn’t think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer(02:40:58) – Writing yourself a letter(02:43:12) – My (Steven’s) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life(02:45:00) – 3 key lessons from Ollie(02:51:49) – How to back off after a peak performance(02:56:47) – “The main reason most of us can’t train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”(03:01:45) – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under-recovering(03:09:41) – “Progression isn’t always the answer.”(03:16:36) – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie’s story about his first 5.14b (8c)(03:25:01) – My 2021 summer season in RMNP(03:28:18) – Removing the friction in your life around climbing(03:31:53) – Take action on something(03:34:48) – Thankful for the Lattice Team(03:36:42) – Wrap up

23 Tammi 20233h 39min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Jordan Cannon tunes in from Alex Honnold’s podcasting closet to chat about playing hockey in Las Vegas, how he is rethinking his training for 2023, and his recent send of ‘ Wet Lycra Nightmare’ (5.13d, 9 pitches) on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. We hope you enjoy this geek-out!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:03:36.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJordan’s Original Episode:EP 115: Jordan Cannon  (April 18, 2022)

19 Tammi 202344min

Fundamentals (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for going on a climbing trip. Whether you are planning your first-ever climbing trip, or are a seasoned climber, we think you’ll find some helpful nuggets here. We learned these lessons the hard way. Hopefully, you won’t have to.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse’s Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-1Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:53) – Jesse’s story of breaking his toe in Thailand, and my first-ever bouldering trip to Bishop CA(00:06:28) – Lessons from our first failed climbing trips(00:09:11) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Set the tone for the trip early(00:12:11) – Jesse’s Tip #2: On a week-long trip, always rest the second day(00:13:58) – Patience, and taking a week or two to acclimate on longer trips(00:17:55) – Steven’s Tip #1: Be open(00:21:48) – Steven’s Tip #2: Climb some easy things(00:23:47) – Bonus Tip: Pay some attention to what your climbing values are(00:24:10) – Steven’s Tip #3: Go look at tons of stuff(00:25:51) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Minimize the decisions you have to make right after climbing(00:27:24) – Try to avoid survival mode(00:29:09) – Steven’s Tip #4: Measure the success of the trip in experiences, and not in sends(00:31:28) – Bonus Tip: Set process-oriented goals rather than achievement-oriented goals (and scrap the tick list)(00:34:12) – How complicated it is to climb well on a trip(00:37:34) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: When people recommend climbs to you, keep in mind that they almost always recommend climbs that they had good experiences on, not things that are objectively good(00:39:11) – My first trip to The Red, Jesse’s first trip to Hueco, and thoughts on training for your first trip to a new area(00:41:55) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Don’t train right up until the trip, and don’t try to cram your training in at the last second (show up rested)(00:45:10) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Spending the entire trip on one climb(00:46:07) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Climbing way too much(00:47:21) – Bonus Tip: Be genuinely interested in other people’s climbing(00:49:01) – Bonus Tip: It’s ok to climb a lot on a trip, but be sure to rest appropriately afterward(00:52:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Wrecking your skin(00:54:47) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not getting the intensity right(00:57:52) – The sunk cost fallacy on a trip(00:58:57) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Set the tone early in the trip(00:59:37) – Steven’s Top Tip: Be open(01:00:31) – Wrap up

16 Tammi 20231h 1min

Welcome to a new mini-series called Fundamentals! My pal Jesse Firestone joins me for a six-part series that covers some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber.  We hope these episodes answer common questions, and provide helpful nuggets for climbers of all ability levels. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon!Listen to Fundamentals episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsJesse's Original Episode:EP 127: Jesse Firestone

16 Tammi 20235min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast to discuss his recent experiments in finger training. We talked about the difference between active recruitment vs. passive tension in finger loading, why deadhangs may not be the best way to improve your finger strength, how to train using active finger flexion, the results he’s had with his clients, and much more. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode, the uncut video interview, and a 6-minute clarification video that I made for Patrons! *The full version is 1:34:15.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTyler’s Other Episodes:EP 79: Tyler Nelson (July 26, 2021)Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson (Jan 28, 2022)

4 Tammi 202326min

Luke Mehall is the creator of The Climbing Zine and The Dirtbag State of Mind podcast. In this episode, we take turns interviewing each other. I ask Luke why he started The Climbing Zine, what lessons climbing has taught him, what themes connect the stories he selects, and how to sustain creative work. He asks me about my origin story with The Nugget, what all of these interviews have brought to my life, and the difficulties I’ve faced along the way.Check out The Climbing Zine!climbingzine.comCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/luke-mehallNuggets:0:05:18 – What Luke learned from Tim (the owner of Zia Taqueria) about business0:10:48 – Why Luke started The Climbing Zine0:13:11 – What characterizes a zine?0:17:59 – The theme that connects all of the stories Luke chooses for The Climbing Zine0:20:43 – Finding authors and stories, and why Luke almost never assigns stories/topics0:22:46 – How climbing gave Luke his life and saved him from substance abuse and depression0:26:37 – Why you can’t rely just on climbing for your happiness0:27:55 – Sharing vulnerable stories that others can relate to0:29:26 – Luke’s vision for his brand, and how he hopes to share his personal story through film0:34:53 – How to protect the thing you love when your creative work becomes your job0:38:57 – How Luke uses therapy to talk about his goals, and having a hype man0:42:13 – Steven’s origin story with The Nugget, and what I am trying to do by sharing people’s stories0:50:15 – What all of these interviews have brought to my life0:55:01 – The most challenging parts of building The Nugget into a sustainable business1:02:19 – Desiring routine and seasons1:04:27 – My favorite podcasting moments1:08:19 – Sustaining the effort, paying it forward, and closing thoughts from both me and Luke

2 Tammi 20231h 14min

New interview featuring me! Isabel von Rittberg is a good friend of mine and the host of Kegels and Coffee. She interviewed me on her podcast earlier this year to talk about my experience with my first-ever panic attack in December of 2021. We talked about what led up to the panic attack and how it was a wake-up call for me, how to stay sane while getting the work done, and much more.*This was one of the most vulnerable interviews I’ve done. And it’s one of my favorites. Hope you enjoy :) Listen to more episodes of Kegels and Coffee!kegelsandcoffee.com We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-on-kegels-and-coffee

26 Joulu 20221h 54min