EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real

EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real

Anna Hazelnutt is a professional climber who specializes in difficult single-pitch trad and slab climbing. But don’t let her specialization fool you—she’s an all-around badass! We talked about two of her biggest climbing achievements to date, leaning into her superpowers, top training exercises for slabs, dealing with negative comments online, embracing empathy, comedy as a mechanism for change, and much more!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/anna-hazelnutt

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:08:20) – Anna’s childhood room

(00:10:00) – Plans for Austria

(00:11:21) – What we would talk about if we were doing a 6-hour podcast

(00:12:50) – Switching places, and the names of our Subarus

(00:14:35) – What is Anna’s last name? (Hazelnutt? Hazlett?)

(00:17:39) – Lynn Hill gave a shoutout to Anna on The Nugget

(00:19:41) – How Anna got started in climbing, and how she found her slab/trad niche

(00:24:40) – Anna’s climbing identity, not letting herself grow comfortable, and her competitive side

(00:28:57) – Balancing intensity and comedy

(00:30:10) – What Anna does to relax (reading books, writing poetry, art), and having trouble sitting still

(00:33:30) – Getting an overuse injury from too much slab climbing, and sending ‘Once Upon a Time’ E9 6c in the UK

(00:35:53) – Anna’s “belaytioship” with Tom Randall

(00:39:29) – Going back for ‘Walk of Life’ E9

(00:41:33) – More context about Once Upon a Time and Walk of Life, using skyhooks as trad climbing gear, and taking an hour to lead a 50-meter slab

(00:45:38) – Anna’s approach to projecting, and breaking down the climb into chapters

(00:50:14) – The chapter names of ‘Walk of Life’ E9

(00:55:32) – Teasing more about toe training, and Anna’s thoughts on hangboard tests

(01:01:01) – Some context about the 9c test

(01:02:53) – Toe training!

(01:07:11) – How Anna inspired Tom to work on flexibility

(01:09:15) – Leaning into our superpowers

(01:14:53) – Anna’s dreamboard, and seeking out hard climbs that fit her style

(01:19:30) – How and when Anna did her toe training, and nighttime training at Tom’s house

(01:24:09) – How hard are the hardest slabs in the world, and what will it take for Anna to climb them

(01:28:45) – Why vertical bouldering is so different from steep bouldering when it comes to pushing your limits

(01:31:23) – Anna’s thoughts on slab grades, and how they are often unfairly sandbagged

(01:38:04) – Patron question from Jonathan: Does Anna have any training tips for slab climbing? (Anna shares her top slab training exercises: toe training, flexibility, balance, and more)

(01:41:20) – Pull-ups on micro edges, and the smallest holds Anna can do pull-ups on

(01:43:19) – Shoulder exercises for slab

(01:44:12) – Do coordination gym slabs help with outdoor slabs?

(01:46:59) – Shoes for hard slabs like ‘Meltdown’ 9a (5.14d)

(01:52:54) – Question from Ethan Pringle: What are some synonyms for success in rock climbing that aren’t violent or war-like?

(01:58:52) – Another question from Ethan: Where does Anna’s work ethic come from?

(02:02:55) – Anna’s sensitivity

(02:04:14) – Dealing with negative comments and hate from dudes on the internet

(02:09:31) – An example of a disgusting comment that Anna received from someone on her YouTube page

(02:16:14) – Anna’s story about a recent comment she and her sister got at the gym

(02:21:18) – Patron question from James: How can we make women feel more comfortable and included at the crag and at the gym?

(02:23:31) – Anna’s thoughts on intention, awareness, curiosity, and acting with empathy and compassion

(02:28:27) – What makes Anna feel safe vs unsafe in a climbing gym setting

(02:31:32) – How the burden often falls on the people who are inflicted and don’t assume

(02:35:45) – Derek Sivers, and why we should just treat everyone the same while respecting their lived experience

(02:39:17) – Some more thoughts about progressivism, and being willing to own your mistakes

(02:41:34) – Comedy as a mechanism for change, and studying biochemical neuroscience and English

(02:42:32) – The change that Anna is trying to make through her videos

(02:47:07) – Giving others permission

(02:49:28) – What Anna feels excited about right now in her climbing

(02:51:01) – What Anna feels excited about right now with her YouTube channel

(02:52:59) – Anna’s sources of income

(02:54:54) – Being a hand model for a Sofie Tucker music video

(02:56:41) – The difference between YouTube and podcasts

(03:00:35) – Final question from Ethan: Does Anna have specific goals that are lifetime achievement goals?

(03:06:43) – Empathy

(03:09:20) – Wrap up

Jaksot(381)

EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers

EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers

Katie Lambert is an elite rock climber in just about every discipline of the sport. She is also a contributing author for Climbing Magazine, owns a business, and has a master’s in nutrition. We talked...

27 Huhti 20201h 35min

EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project

EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project

Jonathan Siegrist is a professional rock climber, and one of the most prolific sport climbers in the world. We talked about the evolution of his training, how he trained to climb 5.15b, current traini...

20 Huhti 20201h 57min

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

Bill Ramsey is a professor of philosophy at the University of Nevada Las Vegas and at 59-years-old, still climbs 5.14. We talked about his coffee addiction, his legendary training days and how he uses...

13 Huhti 20201h 40min

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

Mike Doyle is an elite-level rock climber who balances climbing with a career as a software engineer. He also has a long history of competition climbing and coaching. We talked about lessons learned f...

6 Huhti 20201h 39min

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

Shanjean Lee is an orthopedic surgeon and a badass climber whose accomplishments range from V10 boulders, to 5.14a sport, to 5.13+ trad and multi-pitch climbs. We talked about how SJ trained to climb ...

30 Maalis 20201h 58min

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

Peter Croft is an absolute legend in climbing. We talked about ‘The Shadow’ in Squamish and how his ascent became a climbing game, lessons from spending time alone, experimenting with burning fat for ...

23 Maalis 20201h 45min

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

Will Stanhope is a professional rock climber with many notable ascents in the realm of single and multi-pitch trad climbing, free-soloing, and cutting edge first ascents. We talked about Will’s recent...

16 Maalis 202058min

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stin...

24 Helmi 20201h 41min

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