EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus

EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus

Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!

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  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torr

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:06:00) – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery

(00:09:55) – Ollie’s work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery

(00:14:25) – Ollie’s thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury

(00:20:33) – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie’s funny story about his first interview on Training Beta

(00:23:00) – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression

(00:26:06) – “What got me here won’t get me there.”

(00:28:35) – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A!

(00:32:00) – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients

(00:39:54) – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients

(00:46:10) – Flexibility testing for climbers

(00:49:59) – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie’s process of examining movement, joint, and action

(00:56:25) – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan’s approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training

(01:00:29) – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts

(01:13:24) – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower

(01:21:00) – Limbic friction

(01:22:13) – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”

(01:30:20) – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing

(01:39:31) – Key exercises for all climbers

(01:43:43) – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home

(01:45:03) – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?

(01:51:59) – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do

(01:54:43) – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day

(01:56:54) – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement

(02:02:17) – Having agency in your recovery

(02:03:51) – Leg kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body

(02:07:05) – Setting the bar super low

(02:08:23) – Staying on the bus

(02:11:39) – Ollie’s gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period

(02:20:10) – Testing his fingers in Tom’s cellar

(02:21:41) – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength

(02:28:22) – The secret to finger strength is….

(02:31:45) – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing

(02:35:16) – Why Ollie doesn’t think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer

(02:40:58) – Writing yourself a letter

(02:43:12) – My (Steven’s) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life

(02:45:00) – 3 key lessons from Ollie

(02:51:49) – How to back off after a peak performance

(02:56:47) – “The main reason most of us can’t train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”

(03:01:45) – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under-recovering

(03:09:41) – “Progression isn’t always the answer.”

(03:16:36) – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie’s story about his first 5.14b (8c)

(03:25:01) – My 2021 summer season in RMNP

(03:28:18) – Removing the friction in your life around climbing

(03:31:53) – Take action on something

(03:34:48) – Thankful for the Lattice Team

(03:36:42) – Wrap up

Jaksot(379)

EP 277: Michelle LeBlanc — Project Pride 2025, the Political Pendulum Swing, and Meeting in the Middle

EP 277: Michelle LeBlanc — Project Pride 2025, the Political Pendulum Swing, and Meeting in the Middle

Michelle LeBlanc returns to the podcast to talk about her annual Project Pride event in Squamish, B.C. (August 29-30, 2025). She shared her personal story and why she started Project Pride, and we talked about cultural and political pendulum swings, sensationalism in the media, and what to expect if you attend her upcoming event.You can buy tickets here: https://www.eventbrite.ca/e/project-pride-squamish-2025-tickets-1415859827859?fbclid=PAZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAad_JFGfbgS_SEWNkjXVlG2Me2S_7YVmPskjfFcyihN-BBdKJmCPsrNv0NDu1w_aem_uC2R3rhGN0dtaZ3DICGmSwShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/michelle-leblanc-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:38) – Not queer enough(00:08:08) – Project Pride(00:23:12) – Instagram comments(00:34:00) – Meeting in the middle(00:38:47) – The pendulum swing(00:53:38) – Labels(00:57:18) – Sensationalism(01:02:01) – Upcoming event(01:11:45) – Stay sane

10 Heinä 1h 15min

EP 276: Alex Bridgewater — Sports Psychology Tools to Elevate Your Climbing Performance

EP 276: Alex Bridgewater — Sports Psychology Tools to Elevate Your Climbing Performance

Alex Bridgewater (M.S. in Sports Psychology) returns to the podcast to discuss tools that can help elevate your climbing performance. We talked about finding your values, the dark side of expectations, a framework for working toward goals, how to develop confidence, building awareness, whether climbing is separate from life, the cost of masochism, acceptance, unhooking, mindfulness practice, and much more. You can work with Alex at innersourceperformancepsychology.comMad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.YouTube Videos:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out my latest training tip videos and be sure to subscribe!The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-bridgewater-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:38) – Graduate school(00:10:21) – Psychology for climbers(00:18:54) – Finding your values(00:28:52) – Expectations(00:38:27) – WOOP (Wish, Outcome, Obstacle, Plan)(01:07:07) – Manifesting flexibility(01:16:24) – Confidence(01:20:37) – Building awareness(01:32:43) – Is climbing separate from life?(01:43:32) – What is the cost?(01:54:37) – We’re not professional athletes(02:00:36) – Many different selves(02:08:32) – Acceptance(02:14:57) – Unhooking(02:18:38) – Mindfulness practice(02:35:53) – Alex’s practices(02:43:06) – Alex’s coaching offerings

7 Heinä 2h 47min

Something Different | Jake Muise (CEO & Founder of Maui Nui Venison) — Sustainable Food for Peak Performance

Something Different | Jake Muise (CEO & Founder of Maui Nui Venison) — Sustainable Food for Peak Performance

What if you could eat the healthiest meat on the planet while helping the environment? Jake Muise is the CEO and founder of Maui Nui Venison, and joins me to talk about sustainable food and the future of nutrient density. We talked about the overpopulation of Axis deer in Hawaii, the cyclical die-off they experience without predation, solving complex problems, the secret to sustaining high-level output, harvesting at night, nutrition of place, sharing with community, and much more.Maui Nui Venison (The Healthiest Red Meat on the Planet)mauinuivenison.com/stevenChilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemNADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% offSupport Something Different on Patreonpatreon.com/somethingdiffpodTimestamps:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:04) – Axis deer(00:05:18) – A food resource(00:07:53) – Volleyball & performance(00:12:04) – Jake’s intro to hunting(00:13:34) – Drought & die-off(00:17:00) – Tracking animals & finding balance(00:31:02) – Paying cattle ranchers(00:37:45) – Harvesting at night(00:47:55) – Nutrition of place(00:55:02) – The future of nutrient density(00:57:17) – Sustaining high-level output(01:02:10) – Sharing with community(01:07:55) – Hope for the future(01:12:26) – Wrap up

1 Heinä 1h 15min

EP 275: Yuji Hirayama — Japanese Focus, Improving Every Day, and the Secret to Staying Young

EP 275: Yuji Hirayama — Japanese Focus, Improving Every Day, and the Secret to Staying Young

Yuji Hirayama is a Japanese professional climber and a living legend. We talked about visualizing his onsight attempt on The Salathe, channeling support into power, Daniel Woods, Mount Kinabalu, Japanese vs. Western culture, quitting school to climb, owning climbing gyms, how to stay 9a fit in your 50s, the secret to staying young, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Chilipad:checkout.sleep.meUse this link for 20% off any of Chilipad's sleep cooling systems.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.YouTube Videos:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out my latest training tip videos and be sure to subscribe!Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yuji-hirayamaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:10) – The Professionals film(00:12:30) – Attempting to onsight the Salathe(00:22:04) – Channeling support into power(00:30:26) – Challenge, change, & Daniel Woods(00:36:53) – Mount Kinabalu(00:50:23) – How Yuji has changed(00:57:15) – Why Yuji climbs(01:03:40) – Japanese vs. Western culture(01:09:35) – Yuji’s parents(01:11:58) – Early climbing(01:14:22) – Running(01:19:05) – Quitting school to climb(01:24:20) – Who inspires Yuji(01:28:02) – How climbing has changed(01:31:16) – Owning gyms(01:40:33) – Karaoke(01:41:18) – Wine, Dine, & Climb(01:43:07) – Staying 9a fit in your 50s(01:47:03) – Japanese focus on hard climbing(01:48:54) – The next trip(01:51:33) – The secret to staying young(01:55:32) – Wrap up

23 Kesä 1h 57min

Something Different | Eric Edmeades — Unlocking Resilience Through Ancestral Living

Something Different | Eric Edmeades — Unlocking Resilience Through Ancestral Living

Eric Edmeades is often referred to as the “Indiana Jones” of the professional speaking world. He has been traveling to Africa to visit the Hadza, one of the last remaining hunter-gatherer groups, since 2007. We talked about rites of passage, how ancestral living solved his health issues, lessons from his time with the Hadza, how to overcome evolutionary mismatch in Western society, founding WILDFIT, and much more. You can learn more about Eric at eric.eeMaui Nui Venison (The Healthiest Red Meat on the Planet)mauinuivenison.com/stevenChilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemHeadspace (Meditation App)Try it for Free for 14 DaysSupport Something Different on Patreonpatreon.com/somethingdiffpodTimestamps:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:40) – Homeless as a teenager(00:07:06) – Rites of passage(00:16:31) – Building resiliance(00:20:48) – Health journey(00:27:32) – The US medical system(00:30:54) – Changing his diet(00:34:54) – The Hadza (Hadzabe Tribe)(00:39:19) – Evolutionary mismatch(00:44:53) – What the Hadza eat(00:53:06) – Healthy kids(00:59:02) – Food psychology(01:02:05) – Should we eat like the Hadza?(01:11:53) – Frightened primates(01:19:11) – 3 seasons of eating(01:31:20) – Winter for the Hadza(01:33:10) – Vegetables & tubers(01:37:58) – The evolution gap(01:41:26) – Movement & the lymphatic system(01:46:23) – Executive function(01:51:28) – What life’s about(01:57:13) – Contentment(02:04:36) – Rest & leasure(02:07:07) – Unconditional love(02:10:02) – WILDFIT(02:17:00) – How to connect with Eric(02:19:09) – Be the captain

16 Kesä 2h 23min

EP 274: Seneida Biendarra — Onsighting Without Sight, Designing Better Gear, and Wielding the Empathy Gun

EP 274: Seneida Biendarra — Onsighting Without Sight, Designing Better Gear, and Wielding the Empathy Gun

Seneida Biendarra is the 2023 US National Champion in the women’s B2 (severely blind) category. We talked about losing her vision as a teenager, her current visual experience, creating mental maps of the world, finding freedom in risk, designing outdoor gear, the world of paraclimbing and the adaptive community, sight guiding, the empathy gun, embracing chapters in life, and much more.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/seneida-biendarraNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:00) – 1950s appliances(00:05:08) – A fresh start(00:07:49) – Seneida’s visual experience(00:10:00) – Losing vision(00:17:02) – The map(00:19:38) – Visual experience continued(00:23:35) – An invisible disability(00:25:56) – Daily living vs. climbing(00:29:44) – Meeting other blind climbers(00:36:08) – Crashes(00:39:34) – Risk & freedom(00:44:48) – Early climbing(00:48:32) – An onsight philosophy(00:52:19) – Visualization(00:55:09) – Lights out(01:01:49) – Accessibility tools & basketball(01:05:59) – Designing gear(01:13:06) – Parents & childhood(01:17:08) – Backpacking(01:19:21) – Daily living continued(01:28:55) – Nate(01:31:10) – Sight Guiding(01:37:40) – The world of paraclimbing(01:41:28) – 2028 Olympics(01:46:09) – Identity & community(01:49:51) – Mourning, normalizing, & sympathy(01:53:31) – How to be a supportive sighted person(01:56:25) – Empathy gun(02:01:09) – Parts of ourselves(02:04:45) – Interpersonal bonds(02:12:39) – Embracing chapters(02:18:53) – Self-driving taxis(02:21:55) – Spotlighting the adaptive community(02:26:12) – “You belong more than you think you do.”(02:29:45) – New designs

9 Kesä 2h 31min

EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades

EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades

Brendan Baars is a boulderer from Grand Rapids, MI, who has spent the past seven years developing a new bouldering area called The Nooks in Ontario, Canada. We talked about what a day of developing looks like, his go-to gear, how his big toe saved his life, the untapped potential in Canada, the reward of establishing and sharing new climbs, undone projects, the logistics of visiting The Nooks, his upcoming film The Developer, and much more.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.The GRINDS Program:thenuggetclimbing.comEnter your email to get a free PDF and log sheetBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brendan-baarsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:10) – Capentry(00:05:52) – Steven’s cabin(00:07:06) – Intro to climbing(00:10:03) – Weekend warrior(00:17:14) – Discovering The Nooks(00:20:51) – Goldmine(00:23:12) – “This is sick”(00:28:50) – Years of potential(00:34:47) – Summer & bugs(00:38:22) – Weather(00:40:01) – A new avenue & a sacrifice(00:50:02) – Sharing The Nooks(00:55:10) – A day of developing(00:57:01) – Custom backpack(01:01:51) – Big Toe(01:09:07) – Rope systems & ladders(01:12:30) – The Developer film(01:18:25) – Rock type & style(01:20:47) – Elliot Lake(01:33:39) – Logistics & amenities(01:36:42) – Guidebook & KAYA(01:39:06) – The Croc Block(01:41:54) – Top Nooks Boulders(01:47:56) – Hard projects(01:51:31) – More Nooks info(01:54:38) – The Canadian frontier(01:57:43) – Wrap up + EXTRA teaser

27 Touko 2h 3min

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

Steven Bergey started climbing at 31 and climbed his first V11 outside within four years. We talked about his projecting approach, the “outdoor gear”, suspending your disbelief until the magic happens, his diet and sleep routines, tips for climbing at night, the pivotal moments that change our lives forever, and more.The GRINDS Program 👉 thenuggetclimbing.comThe NUG 👉 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugBecome a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-bergeyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:24) – When to call it on a project(00:08:40) – Summer mode(00:10:27) – The Martin Keller approach(00:14:34) – Steven’s approach(00:17:53) – The outdoor gear(00:24:10) – Anthem(00:29:26) – Adapting to fingery climbing(00:33:26) – Diet(00:37:16) – Thoughts on keto & carnivore(00:42:38) – Still improving(00:43:59) – TB2(00:49:35) – More about diet(00:58:12) – Sleep(01:02:20) – Snacking & when he climbs(01:03:36) – Work & night climbing(01:09:08) – Light tips(01:11:49) – Tea & coffee(01:15:59) – Put in the time(01:18:56) – Suspend your disbelief(01:21:16) – Pivotal moments(01:28:59) – Wrap up

22 Touko 1h 33min

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