EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast

EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast

Jeannie Wall (aka “The Energizer Bunny”) is a world-class skier, life-long mountain athlete, and obsessed climber. She cofounded Broad Beta to cultivate a community for women and genderqueer folks to share their stories of outdoor adventures in the mountains. We talked about lessons from her upbringing, the importance of partnerships and mentorship in climbing, slowing down to go fast, engaging with the edge of our comfort zone, ordinary people doing extraordinary things, and much more!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jeannie-wall

Nuggets:

0:08:38 – Overview of our conversation, and growing up as the youngest of 11 children

0:14:22 – Baggage and benefits from her upbringing, and being competitive as a racer

0:16:52 – The chapter of life that Jeannie is in now, and learning patience

0:19:22 – Competing at the Olympic Trials for nordic skiing, and why she doesn’t miss competing and racing

0:23:58 – Shifting toward climbing, and how she has changed in her 50s

0:25:38 – Examples of people climbing hard in their 60s, and Jeannie’s hut ski trip

0:28:07 – Why Jeannie finally got hooked on climbing

0:34:12 – Getting Swine Flu, dealing with chronic fatigue for two years, and finding a different path in climbing

0:36:14 – “If you wanna go fast, you have to go slow most of the time.”

0:41:31 – How media influences us in climbing, and giving the last 10% to be excellent at something

0:47:02 – My inner tension with bouldering, the role of mentorship, and Jeannie’s story of climbing Fitz Roy

0:54:42 – Challenge and risk as key parts of the human experience

1:01:18 – “If we’re not learning are we really happy?”

1:05:25 – Engaging with the edge of our comfort zone

1:07:13 – The pressure to be someone other than who you are

1:12:33 – The value of pursuing your passion

1:15:05 – Wildness, and why Jeannie and Leslie started Broad Beta

1:24:20 – Heroes, looking at the whole person, and the stories of ordinary people doing extraordinary things

1:28:42 – Why stories are so powerful

1:33:02 – Sharing the whole story, and Jeannie’s menopause article

1:38:09 – Jeannie’s vision for Broad Beta

1:45:12 – Where to find Broad Beta

1:47:10 – Wrap up and final questions

Jaksot(384)

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicit...

3 Maalis 20252h 40min

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity...

24 Helmi 20252h

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

Caroline Ciavaldini is a French professional climber specializing in sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. We talked about growing up in La Réunion, early climbing, her mother’s suicide, the magic an...

17 Helmi 20252h 30min

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journ...

10 Helmi 20252h 1min

Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore

Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore

Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushi...

5 Helmi 202538min

EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing

EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing

Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of t...

3 Helmi 20251h 45min

EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.

EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.

Sol Wertkin is a former rock climber, cancer survivor, nurse, and avid mountain biker. We talked about new routing in the PNW, the “Golden Era” of Leavenworth climbing, the passing of Johnny Goicoeche...

27 Tammi 20253h 8min

EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard ...

20 Tammi 20252h 23min

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