EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helped him send a 20+ move roof boulder, how to optimize your power endurance for a sport climbing trip, and much more. Buckle up for a good old-fashioned training chat.

The Nugget Training App (14-Day Free Trial) 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.com

FREE Finger Training PDF 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds

The NUG 👉 https://frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joel-unema

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:00) – Hurricave

(00:04:37) – Dirtbike crash

(00:07:22) – Balance vs. compromise

(00:12:30) – The bigger picture

(00:16:22) – Joel’s breakthrough season

(00:22:43) – Finger Training with Tyler Nelson

(00:37:20) – Roof Training with Steve Bechtel

(00:46:51) – Ice cube moments

(00:58:58) – Hi-Low

(01:05:53) – Training for a sport climbing trip

(01:11:54) – Pacing & metabolic specificity

(01:15:45) – Training for a sport climbing trip continued

(01:18:10) – Riding the rollercoaster

(01:26:18) – Floor & ceiling

(01:35:55) – Achievement to experience

(01:39:00) – Strength training

(01:45:39) – My Hueco goals

(01:49:03) – Joel’s goals

(01:52:13) – The Teacup

(01:56:03) – Wrap up

Jaksot(383)

EP 280: Stevie Hochbaum — Sending Germany’s First V16, The Toll of Obsessive Projecting, and Transformation Through Climbing

EP 280: Stevie Hochbaum — Sending Germany’s First V16, The Toll of Obsessive Projecting, and Transformation Through Climbing

Stevie Hochbaum is an elite boulderer who established the first V16, Obsidian, in Germany. We talked about nearly losing his finger to an infection, how he became obsessed with the project, what it fe...

4 Elo 20252h 3min

Something Different | Can Soil Save the World? Climate, Health, and Big Ag with Rebecca Tickell (Filmmaker, Kiss the Ground)

Something Different | Can Soil Save the World? Climate, Health, and Big Ag with Rebecca Tickell (Filmmaker, Kiss the Ground)

Rebecca Tickell is an award-winning filmmaker, author, environmental activist, and regenerative farmer. We talked about the journey that led to her films Kiss the Ground and Common Ground, the history...

28 Heinä 20251h 47min

EP 279: Andy Raether — Bringing Routes to Life, How to Be Stronger at 40 than 20, & the Woods Board

EP 279: Andy Raether — Bringing Routes to Life, How to Be Stronger at 40 than 20, & the Woods Board

Andy Raether is a prolific sport climber, boulderer, and developer based in Las Vegas, NV. He also owns a climbing hold company and created the Woods Board. We talked about his intro to climbing and m...

21 Heinä 20253h 11min

EP 278: Jeremy Kiner (Patron Spotlight) — The GRINDS Program, Embracing Double Rest Days, & Regenerative Farming

EP 278: Jeremy Kiner (Patron Spotlight) — The GRINDS Program, Embracing Double Rest Days, & Regenerative Farming

Jeremy Kiner is a Kentucky-based boulderer and sport climber. We talked about his journey to V10 and 5.13b, how he uses a board circuit as a training benchmark, his experience with the GRINDS finger t...

16 Heinä 20252h 23min

EP 277: Michelle LeBlanc — Project Pride 2025, the Political Pendulum Swing, and Meeting in the Middle

EP 277: Michelle LeBlanc — Project Pride 2025, the Political Pendulum Swing, and Meeting in the Middle

Michelle LeBlanc returns to the podcast to talk about her annual Project Pride event in Squamish, B.C. (August 29-30, 2025). She shared her personal story and why she started Project Pride, and we tal...

10 Heinä 20251h 15min

EP 276: Alex Bridgewater — Sports Psychology Tools to Elevate Your Climbing Performance

EP 276: Alex Bridgewater — Sports Psychology Tools to Elevate Your Climbing Performance

Alex Bridgewater (M.S. in Sports Psychology) returns to the podcast to discuss tools that can help elevate your climbing performance. We talked about finding your values, the dark side of expectations...

7 Heinä 20252h 47min

Something Different | Jake Muise (CEO & Founder of Maui Nui Venison) — Sustainable Food for Peak Performance

Something Different | Jake Muise (CEO & Founder of Maui Nui Venison) — Sustainable Food for Peak Performance

What if you could eat the healthiest meat on the planet while helping the environment? Jake Muise is the CEO and founder of Maui Nui Venison, and joins me to talk about sustainable food and the future...

1 Heinä 20251h 15min

EP 275: Yuji Hirayama — Japanese Focus, Improving Every Day, and the Secret to Staying Young

EP 275: Yuji Hirayama — Japanese Focus, Improving Every Day, and the Secret to Staying Young

Yuji Hirayama is a Japanese professional climber and a living legend. We talked about visualizing his onsight attempt on The Salathe, channeling support into power, Daniel Woods, Mount Kinabalu, Japan...

23 Kesä 20251h 57min

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