EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing

EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing

Alex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough. Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard about, near misses, lessons from other climbing legends like Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft, pooping while free soloing stories, how the film Free Solo exceeded his hopes and dreams, the commitment to excellence, and much more!

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  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-honnold

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:04:21) – Interviews and TED Talks

(00:07:25) – Finding new terrain for this interview

(00:08:05) – Epic solo linkup in Zion

(00:11:16) – Soloing ‘Moonlight Buttress’… again

(00:12:08) – Why do these big solo linkups?

(00:12:56) – Epic solo linkup in Red Rock

(00:14:54) – Foot pain on big walls and vitamin I

(00:17:41) – Onsight free soloing ‘Shune’s Buttress’ and ‘Resolution Arete’

(00:20:34) – The hardest thing Alex has downclimbed

(00:21:29) – Solos that fly under the radar

(00:22:47) – Free soloing ‘Sendero Luminoso’ in Mexico

(00:25:17) – The limits of free soloing

(00:28:31) – Quantum leaps

(00:30:16) – Yosemite soloing, and Alex vs. top sport climbers

(00:32:22) – Chris Sharma's FA of ‘Necessary Evil’ 5.14c (8c+), and the role of talent

(00:35:40) – Will Alex climb 5.15a (9a+)?

(00:38:33) – Dad strength

(00:39:46) – Vegas gyms and homewall dreams

(00:49:34) – Near misses

(00:55:34) – Soloing ‘Fiesta De Los Biceps’ in Riglos Spain

(00:57:46) – Competing with Ethan Pringle, soloing ‘Shune’s Butress’ in the snow, and the tree story

(01:03:16) – Soloing ‘Monkey Finger’, Big Horn tracks, and spirit animals

(01:04:22) – The physiological limits of ‘The Nose’ speed record

(01:08:06) – Breaking ‘The Nose’ speed record

(01:10:47) – Biggest lessons from Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft

(01:14:26) – Inspiration, and soloing with Shawn Raboutou

(01:18:15) – Following the climbing news

(01:19:01) – Who Alex is most impressed by, and interviewing the Mellow crew (Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Jimmy Webb, and Giuliano Cameroni)

(01:20:35) – New season of Climbing Gold

(01:22:13) – Favorite interviews on Climbing Gold

(01:23:28) – Corporate speaking and interviewing Stone Masters

(01:26:24) – Climbing Gold uncut interviews

(01:28:37) – Pooping while free soloing stories

(01:34:56) – Shit-puting, and pooping while soloing El Cap

(01:36:29) – Filming Free Solo and the Warrior Spirit

(01:38:54) – The commitment to excellence

(01:41:05) – Plans for the PNW

(01:43:57) – “More intention never hurt.”

(01:44:47) – “The guy that free-handed Yellowstone?”

Jaksot(382)

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4...

16 Syys 20241h 32min

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the p...

15 Syys 20241h 21min

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limi...

9 Syys 20242h 9min

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and ...

2 Syys 20241h 10min

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain...

27 Elo 20242h

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshop...

19 Elo 20241h 2min

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into s...

19 Elo 20245min

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electr...

12 Elo 20242h

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