EP 173: Louis Parkinson — How to Break Down Dynamic Movements, the Benefits of Indoor Climbing, and Cultivating Confidence

EP 173: Louis Parkinson — How to Break Down Dynamic Movements, the Benefits of Indoor Climbing, and Cultivating Confidence

Louis Parkinson is a London-based climber and coach and is one of the best in the world at teaching dynamic movement. We talked about the benefits of indoor climbing, how practicing comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing, sending his first 8B in Magic Wood, timing your breathing with hard moves, skill drills for experienced climbers, how to break down dynamic movements, cultivating confidence, and much more!

Apply for a job at Easy Expense!

Click Here to Apply

Learn more: easy-expense.com

Check out Chalk Cartel!

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out PhysiVantage!

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

Check out Rumpl!

rumpl.com/nugget

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!

Check out Rocky Talkie!

RockyTalkie.com/Nugget

Use this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-parkinson

Nuggets:

0:04:10 – The culture of indoor climbing

0:06:45 – The benefits of climbing indoors, and Louis’ success on short outdoor trips

0:10:27 – Rehabbing my bicep tendon injury in the gym, and what I noticed on the rock afterward

0:13:55 – London

0:15:24 – A week in the life of Louis Parkinson

0:20:52 – Beginners try hard

0:24:38 – Efficiency, and dancing vs wrestling

0:30:18 – How did Louis get the nickname Captain Cutloose?

0:34:16 – Louis’ first trip to Magic Wood, and sending the Foxy Lady dyno (7C?)

0:38:56 – Riverbed 8B (V13), and his amazing tick list for the trip

0:43:30 – Comparing ourselves to our previous bests

0:48:04 – How to time your breathing with your climbing

0:55:20 – Practicing new skills medium intensity climbs

0:58:05 – How Louis thinks about practicing skills

1:01:50 – Skill Drill: Sticky hands sticky feet

1:06:25 – The Moonboard and Brad Pitt

1:08:20 – Skill Drill: Body awareness and understanding compromises

1:15:20 – Skill Drill: Using momentum

1:17:28 – My experience on Burl Master 5.13c (8a+), and learning about contextual difficulty

1:21:05 – Risk, Intensity, and Complexity

1:23:47 – How practicing modern comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing

1:29:10 – Jan Hojer flashing Jack’s Broken Heart 8A+

1:36:22 – How to break down dynamic moves into smaller pieces

1:40:18 – Forgetting the details and going for it

1:41:58 – The Inner Game of Tennis

1:47:17 – How Louis spends his limited climbing time these days

1:52:04 – Cultivated confidence

1:58:06 – Being intensional with your language

2:02:36 – Growth mindset

2:04:34 – Wrap up

Jaksot(387)

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

Bill Ramsey is a professor of philosophy at the University of Nevada Las Vegas and at 59-years-old, still climbs 5.14. We talked about his coffee addiction, his legendary training days and how he uses...

13 Huhti 20201h 40min

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

Mike Doyle is an elite-level rock climber who balances climbing with a career as a software engineer. He also has a long history of competition climbing and coaching. We talked about lessons learned f...

6 Huhti 20201h 39min

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

Shanjean Lee is an orthopedic surgeon and a badass climber whose accomplishments range from V10 boulders, to 5.14a sport, to 5.13+ trad and multi-pitch climbs. We talked about how SJ trained to climb ...

30 Maalis 20201h 58min

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

Peter Croft is an absolute legend in climbing. We talked about ‘The Shadow’ in Squamish and how his ascent became a climbing game, lessons from spending time alone, experimenting with burning fat for ...

23 Maalis 20201h 45min

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

Will Stanhope is a professional rock climber with many notable ascents in the realm of single and multi-pitch trad climbing, free-soloing, and cutting edge first ascents. We talked about Will’s recent...

16 Maalis 202058min

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stin...

24 Helmi 20201h 41min

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

Mark DeJohn is a licensed massage therapist who specialized in Active Release Technique (ART). I began seeing Mark after suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome for six years. Mark was able to fix me us...

17 Helmi 20201h 38min

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face’ in ...

10 Helmi 20202h 17min

Suosittua kategoriassa Koulutus

rss-murhan-anatomia
psykopodiaa-podcast
voi-hyvin-meditaatiot-2
adhd-podi
rss-tietoinen-yhteys-podcast-2
rss-valo-minussa-2
psykologia
rss-liian-kuuma-peruna
rss-rahamania
kesken
rss-niinku-asia-on
rss-arkea-ja-aurinkoa-podcast-espanjasta
rahapuhetta
rss-uskonto-on-tylsaa
rss-vapaudu-voimaasi
jari-sarasvuo-podcast
ihminen-tavattavissa-tommy-hellsten-instituutti
rss-hereilla
aamukahvilla
dear-ladies