EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands

EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands

It’s a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time!

Huge thank you to Liam Andrews-Bancroft for the incredible music at the end of this episode.

Troy's Video:

Pawtuckaway Bouldering - Warrior V3

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

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Austin's Previous Episode:

EP 97: Austin Hoyt

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/troy-austin-bryce

Nuggets:

0:07:13 – Flipping cars and stealing clothes

0:12:00 – “Brad… it's, it’s bad.”

0:18:15 – Troy’s top 3 most scary climbing experiences

0:26:26 – Plans for Tuesday and Monkey Wedding

0:28:13 – Living Large and Finish Line

0:31:13 – Progress on Monkey Wedding, and Austin’s longest project

0:32:43 – Austin’s efforts on Lucid Dreaming, and Alex Megos taping video

0:35:13 – Quintessential and Industry of Cool

0:38:25 – Bryce’s trip so far

0:39:52 – Favorite zones in Rocklands

0:43:24 – Pure, and how fast the level is changing

0:45:36 – Highlights from Rocklands, and having fun

0:48:59 – Industry of Cool, hiking 300+ miles to send The Nest, and unfinished business in Spain

0:52:45 – Sport climbing aspirations, and Max Zolotukhin falling off of Super Nova while trying to free solo it

0:58:17 – Challenging access, and do New England climbers have more fun?

1:02:03 – Potential and rock quality in the NE, and Bryce’s job

1:09:07 – Troy’s job detailing cars, and climbing in West Virginia

1:11:32 – Austin’s tick list

1:14:14 – The variety of styles in Rocklands, and toe hook training

1:16:48 – How long everyone has been climbing, and the BMX connection

1:20:02 – The new crop of young talent

1:24:42 – Most recent comps, and the shorter shelf life of top-level competitors

1:29:41 – Ultimate dream boulders

1:31:31 – Trying climbs way above and below your level, and the V15 goal

1:34:49 – Ethan’s goal to find 5.15 in the Sierra Nevada, and the rarity of all-natural hard routes

1:38:01 – Choss and rain and Hueco, and Ethan’s top 3 favorite bouldering areas

1:41:30 – Almost dying on the topout of The Mandala

1:42:58 – “Dad I’m bread. ”

1:44:31 – Will we climb until we die?

1:45:57 – Mystery climbs in Rocklands

1:48:18 – The drunk comp, and the Anchorman of climbing

1:51:59 – The Lifetime Project guy

1:53:44 – Milkshakes and final goals for the trip

1:57:28 – Airstar getting action

1:58:51 – Ethan’s most epic bat hangs

1:59:58 – Austin’s send of Direct North

2:01:00 – Near misses

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EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

Adam Ondra is back on the podcast to discuss his incredible winter bouldering season, including four V15 (8C) flashes. We talked about why the best sport climbers can keep up with the bouldering speci...

13 Heinä 1h 43min

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

Aaron Shamy has an inspiring story: he won the X Games in the ‘90s, took a 15-year hiatus from climbing, got out of shape, and then began a 6+ year comeback that culminated in sending the hardest rout...

29 Kesä 1h 42min

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

Matt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who...

8 Kesä 2h 10min

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

25 Touko 1h 1min

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Touko 2h 9min

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Huhti 2h 7min

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, ...

14 Huhti 54min

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first asce...

7 Huhti 1h 46min

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