Van Cleef and Arpels: The Mystery Setting and a Crown Built in Tehran
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Van Cleef and Arpels: The Mystery Setting and a Crown Built in Tehran

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Van Cleef & Arpels began in Paris in 1896 when Dutch diamond cutter Alfred van Cleef joined his father-in-law Salomon Arpels. After Salomon's death in 1906, brothers-in-law Charles and Julien Arpels joined, Louis followed in 1913, and the family opened at 22 Place Vendôme, opposite the Hôtel Ritz, then followed wealthy clients to Deauville, Vichy, Nice and Monte Carlo. A bracelet of ruby and diamond roses won the grand prize at the 1925 Paris exposition that launched Art Deco. From 1926 Renée Puissant, Alfred's daughter, directed design for about 20 years with draftsman René Sim Lacaze, favoring flowers, fairies and animals.

The house patented its Mystery Setting in 1933: gems are grooved underneath and slid onto hidden gold rails so no metal shows. In 1966 it was commissioned to make the coronation crown of Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran, and because the stones could not leave the country, its artisans worked for 11 months inside Tehran's central bank. The firm opened at 744 Fifth Avenue in New York in 1940, was bought by Richemont in 1999, and its leader since 2013, Nicolas Bos, became Richemont CEO in 2024.

  • The finished crown carried 1,469 diamonds, 105 pearls, 36 rubies and 36 emeralds.
  • In the 1930s the firm also made a crown for Queen Nazli of Egypt.
  • A 1936 Mystery Set piece sold at Christie's in 2009 for $326,500.
  • Clients have included Grace Kelly, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Diana, Princess of Wales, and Elizabeth Taylor.
  • The house counted about 155 boutiques worldwide in 2022.

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