EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way

EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way

Josh Champion is an MD and elite boulderer based in Portland, Oregon. Josh and I hung out in 2017 during my infamous Bishop trip. Since then he moved to Colorado for residency, got even stronger, and then quit climbing shortly after sending his first three V13s. We talked about why he quit for three years, how he improved his relationship with climbing, helpful books, building Just Beta, and much more!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-champion

Nuggets:

0:00:00 – Intro/Ads

0:03:51 – Intermittent fasting, Josh’s “salad”, and diet soda in the morning

0:07:15 – Reminiscing about the 2017 Bishop trip, Josh’s send of Mandala, and clarifying the timing of my journey with disordered eating

0:12:07 – What happened to Josh after the 2017 trip, and moving to Colorado for residency

0:17:55 – How the pandemic affected his work, and sending his first three V13s

0:19:28 – Putting V13 on a pedestal

0:23:51 – Expectations vs reality of achieving a goal

0:26:21 – Delayed gratification vs learning how to enjoy the process

0:27:52 – Josh and I explore what drives us to pursue goals, and pure inspiration vs seeking approval from others

0:33:41 – Why Josh quit climbing

0:36:16 – What it felt like to quit, filling the gap, and creating BetaCache

0:42:35 – Finding a new physical outlet, and his mindset shift after being away from climbing

0:47:27 – Discovering who you are without climbing

0:49:34 – Not missing climbing, Josh’s antagonistic climbing friendship, and being free from comparison

0:52:48 – What brought him back to climbing

0:55:41 – Working on his relationship with climbing

1:01:14 – The Zen of Climbing

1:07:22 – Inner balance and friction

1:09:48 – Feeling cautious but optimistic, and shifting the emphasis

1:11:52 – Trying Woods Climb in Red Rocks, and plans for his upcoming trip to Moe’s Valley

1:16:34 – Meeting Jonathan Siegrist, starting to climb because we enjoyed it, and when that shifted for Josh

1:23:43 – Seeking challenge is healthy until you start putting numbers on it

1:27:44 – Treating climbing like a martial art or a craft

1:30:28 – Finding satisfaction and accomplishment in the process

1:31:44 – Josh’s thoughts about trying hard projects in the future

1:34:29 – Letting go of needing to check climbs off the list

1:37:27 – What inner work looks like, and Josh’s claim to fame

1:41:31 – The value of learning lessons the hard way

1:44:19 – Realizing you are not alone

1:45:54 – Why Josh created BetaCache, and the updated version JustBeta.net

Jaksot(384)

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

Peter Croft is an absolute legend in climbing. We talked about ‘The Shadow’ in Squamish and how his ascent became a climbing game, lessons from spending time alone, experimenting with burning fat for ...

23 Maalis 20201h 45min

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

Will Stanhope is a professional rock climber with many notable ascents in the realm of single and multi-pitch trad climbing, free-soloing, and cutting edge first ascents. We talked about Will’s recent...

16 Maalis 202058min

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stin...

24 Helmi 20201h 41min

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

Mark DeJohn is a licensed massage therapist who specialized in Active Release Technique (ART). I began seeing Mark after suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome for six years. Mark was able to fix me us...

17 Helmi 20201h 38min

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face’ in ...

10 Helmi 20202h 17min

EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon

EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon

William Woodward (@wheretowillie on Instagram) is a climber, skier, and professional travel photographer. We talked about the beginnings of ‘Where to Willie’, balancing work and passion, finding meani...

3 Helmi 20201h 27min

EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken

EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken

Chris Wright is a professional mountain guide who splits his time between guiding, skiing, and climbing some of the most remote peaks in the world. We talked about his recent team FA of Link Sar in Pa...

2 Helmi 20201h 33min

EP 01: Lizzy VanPatten on Practicing Gratitude, Building a Business, and Projecting Fear (and 5.12 Trad)

EP 01: Lizzy VanPatten on Practicing Gratitude, Building a Business, and Projecting Fear (and 5.12 Trad)

Lizzy VanPatten is a rock climber and the founder of She Moves Mountains, a guiding company with the mission of helping women realize their strength through rock climbing. We talked about Lizzy’s brie...

1 Helmi 20201h 32min

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