The Nugget Climbing Podcast24 Loka 2023

EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization

Jesse Firestone is back on the podcast! We talked about his injury this spring and finding silver linings, why he focused more on weight training than climbing this summer, shifting his priorities to spending more time on projects, biggest lessons from the past three years of coaching, Adam Ondra’s hip flexibility, how to become more flexible through climbing, why visualization is an excellent use of your time, and much more!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestone-returns

Nuggets:

0:00:00 – Intro/Ads

0:05:53 – Jesse’s Winter and Spring season, his wrist injury, and his trip to Fontainebleau

0:11:53 – Losing muscle, falling into our own pitfalls, and a sales pitch for having a coach

0:15:45 – Stoic philosophy, finding the silver lining, and why Jesse climbed a lot less than usual over the summer

0:18:49 – Being stubborn about rock climbing, and plans to balance that with more weight lifting

0:20:32 – Why Jesse is moving toward less volume and more projecting

0:25:31 – Work capacity

0:29:48 – My summer trip, and what I would do the same vs differently to prepare next time

0:34:22 – Chasing the highs, and the reset of a bad injury

0:37:29 – Being content with not sending my project in Rocklands, and Jesse and I talk about struggling to find inspiration there

0:43:53 – What I’ve realized about active rest days in Rocklands

0:47:57 – Why Jesse didn’t set any goals on paper in 2023

0:49:57 – Thai

0:51:25 – How Jesse’s coaching business has evolved, and how he uses Instagram

0:56:03 – “A good coach knows when to be a window and when to be a mirror.”

0:56:33 – Lessons from Jesse’s first few years of coaching

1:05:23 – How coaching has led him to being a more compassionate person

1:08:43 – Summary of coaching lessons

1:09:33 – Intent vs. content of training

1:12:55 – Adam Ondra’s hip flexibility, writing a book, and how to improve flexibility through climbing

1:22:10 – Having a positive attitude about your flexibility

1:29:55 – 3 benefits of visualization for climbers

1:39:53 – The nuts and bolts of visualization

1:46:47 – Jesse puts his coach hat on and encourages me to climb faster

1:51:47 – Visualization for onsighting, and Adam Ondra’s onsight of Just Do It

1:54:20 – Wrap up

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Adam Ondra is back on the podcast to discuss his incredible winter bouldering season, including four V15 (8C) flashes. We talked about why the best sport climbers can keep up with the bouldering speci...

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EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

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EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

Matt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who...

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EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

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EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Touko 2h 9min

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Huhti 2h 7min

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, ...

14 Huhti 54min

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first asce...

7 Huhti 1h 46min