SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training

SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training

Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more!

Jon’s Original Episode:

EP 50: Jon Cardwell

References:

Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette’ 9a+

EP 169: Scott Johnston

Training for the Uphill Athlete (book)

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Sending ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b (9b)

(00:17:40) – How moving away helped him find success

(00:22:21) – Failing to climb ‘Super Crackinette’ 5.15a (9a+), and what he learned from it

(00:27:29) – Adam Ondra’s flash of ‘Super Crackinette’

(00:30:00) – Drawing inspiration from Scott Johnston, and training for ‘Wind Up Bird’

(00:35:53) – Constantly learning

(00:40:42) – More about his training

(00:45:45) – Falling 50+ times on the same move, and building momentum

(00:47:35) – Taking your foot off the gas, maintaining strength, and training plans for the extension

(00:54:20) – Exhaustion and motivation

(00:56:51) – The complexity of sport climbing

(00:58:42) – Is V16 a goal for Jon?

(01:01:23) – New 5.15 projects at The Tunnel in NM

(01:03:00) – Is anyone trying ‘Wind Up Bird’?

(01:05:21) – Will the extension be 5.15c (9b+)?

(01:07:12) – Wrap up

Jaksot(383)

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

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21 Huhti 20252h 8min

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope...

15 Huhti 20252h 39min

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

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7 Huhti 20251h 23min

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climb...

1 Huhti 202529min

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her ...

24 Maalis 20252h 18min

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

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17 Maalis 20251h 55min

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project,...

10 Maalis 20251h 51min

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

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