EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’

EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’

Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.’, and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane’ 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra’s risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, plans for more 9c’s, and much more!

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  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jakob-schubert

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:44) – Jakob’s best year ever

(00:08:49) – Securing his ticket to Paris, and focusing on B.I.G.

(00:10:40) – Inspiration for rock climbing

(00:13:20) – Learning about efficiency from outdoor projects

(00:16:28) – Less emphasis on winning the overall World Cup

(00:18:55) – Giving away his trophies

(00:20:08) – Why did Jakob choose ‘B.I.G.’ 9c and A’lphane’ 9A as projects?

(00:24:16) – Teaming up with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi

(00:26:48) – Learning from Adam’s risky and efficient climbing style

(00:36:13) – The quality of ‘B.I.G.’

(00:38:13) – Breakdown and logistics of ‘B.I.G.’

(00:43:46) – Breaking a hold on his send go of ‘B.I.G.’

(00:45:29) – Did live streaming change the experience?

(00:48:22) – Will Jakob do more live streams in the future?

(00:50:26) – His project schedule on ‘B.I.G.’

(00:53:45) – Logistics of traveling to Flatanger

(00:56:26) – Is ‘B.I.G.’ the best hard route in the world?

(00:59:36) – Plans to return to ‘DNA’ 9c

(01:00:00) – What does ‘B.I.G.’ stand for?

(01:01:45) – How Jakob prepared for ‘B.I.G.’, and revisiting the route with fresh eyes

(01:09:16) – Tweaking beta to send ‘B.I.G.’

(01:11:48) – Muscle memory, connecting hard moves, and repeating boulders with different beta

(01:14:48) – “Waking up” his fingers for ‘Alphane’

(01:17:14) – Analyzing videos of ‘Alphane’

(01:18:28) – Speed training

(01:20:02) – Recovery

(01:21:09) – Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’ V16 (8C+) and what he learned from it

(01:25:48) – Greedy

(01:27:47) – What he plans to do differently for ‘Sleepwalker’ when he goes back

(01:29:30) – Drew Ruana’s story about Jakob, and who Jakob has been the most impressed by

(01:35:27) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Jaksot(384)

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

Peter Croft is an absolute legend in climbing. We talked about ‘The Shadow’ in Squamish and how his ascent became a climbing game, lessons from spending time alone, experimenting with burning fat for ...

23 Maalis 20201h 45min

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

Will Stanhope is a professional rock climber with many notable ascents in the realm of single and multi-pitch trad climbing, free-soloing, and cutting edge first ascents. We talked about Will’s recent...

16 Maalis 202058min

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stin...

24 Helmi 20201h 41min

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

Mark DeJohn is a licensed massage therapist who specialized in Active Release Technique (ART). I began seeing Mark after suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome for six years. Mark was able to fix me us...

17 Helmi 20201h 38min

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face’ in ...

10 Helmi 20202h 17min

EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon

EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon

William Woodward (@wheretowillie on Instagram) is a climber, skier, and professional travel photographer. We talked about the beginnings of ‘Where to Willie’, balancing work and passion, finding meani...

3 Helmi 20201h 27min

EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken

EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken

Chris Wright is a professional mountain guide who splits his time between guiding, skiing, and climbing some of the most remote peaks in the world. We talked about his recent team FA of Link Sar in Pa...

2 Helmi 20201h 33min

EP 01: Lizzy VanPatten on Practicing Gratitude, Building a Business, and Projecting Fear (and 5.12 Trad)

EP 01: Lizzy VanPatten on Practicing Gratitude, Building a Business, and Projecting Fear (and 5.12 Trad)

Lizzy VanPatten is a rock climber and the founder of She Moves Mountains, a guiding company with the mission of helping women realize their strength through rock climbing. We talked about Lizzy’s brie...

1 Helmi 20201h 32min

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