EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta

EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta

Adrian Vanoni is an up-and-coming finger crack wizard who has been on fire for the last few years. We talked about him breaking into 5.14, freeing El Cap ground up and then in a day, training for the famous ‘Cobra Crack’ using a campus board, doing the first free ascent of a 5.14 finger crack in the alpine, lucid dreaming about beta, going after hard routes that will force you to grow as a climber, and much more!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adrian-vanoni

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:04) – Mustaches, haircuts, and wired headphones

(00:05:16) – Our conversation about trying to climb 5.14

(00:07:42) – Geeking out about ‘Badman’ 5.14a

(00:08:40) – Collecting unfinished business, and sticking with it on projects

(00:11:04) – Little Si, and a new crag in WA

(00:13:30) – Adrian’s lifestyle

(00:16:04) – The glamorous life of an amateur climber

(00:20:29) – His beginnings in trad climbing

(00:23:29) – Developing the skills to free El Cap

(00:24:16) – Freeing ‘Golden Gate’ ground up with Sam Stroh

(00:26:14) – Comparing his and Sam’s tick lists

(00:30:54) – Putting ‘El Corazon’ in a day into context

(00:40:44) – Will’s impressive belay season

(00:41:25) – Blue-collar sending

(00:46:39) – ‘Mr. Chicken’

(00:53:38) – Trying hard is trainable

(00:58:50) – Anticipation, expectation, and redpoint stress

(01:00:59) – Living in the present, and appreciating the journey

(01:04:00) – Sending ‘Cobra Crack’ 5.14b

(01:10:25) – Training for Cobra on the campus board

(01:17:31) – Visualization and lucid dreaming

(01:21:30) – More ‘Badman’ beta

(01:25:01) – The nuance of resting on sport routes

(01:29:09) – Beta depends on context

(01:35:58) – Prusik Peak and ‘Prayer for a Friend’

(02:00:24) – The style of big wall ascents

(02:10:06) – Street credit

(02:18:07) – Sending ‘Prayer for a Friend’ 5.14-

(02:22:56) – Goal routes and boulders

(02:31:42) – Social media vs. inspiration

(02:39:41) – Not everything is for everyone

(02:45:54) – My climbing as a more public person

(02:49:26) – Growing to meet a route where it is

(02:51:26) – Get on the hard thing you want to do

(02:57:57) – ‘Freerider’ in a day

(03:13:19) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Jaksot(382)

EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training

Dr. Jared Vagy returns to the podcast and is joined by three physical therapy students and graduates, Sarah Kremer, Dawson Freeze, and Michael Larson. We talked about three recent articles covering th...

6 Loka 20251h 24min

NEW LAUNCH: The Nugget Training App is Live

NEW LAUNCH: The Nugget Training App is Live

The Nugget Training App is the ultimate hub for every training session I've discussed with my guests on the podcast. Get guided sessions, track your progress, schedule your training, and more. New fea...

4 Loka 20253min

EP 283: Adrian Ballinger — The Mental and Physical Grind of High-Altitude Climbing, and Lessons for Every Climber

EP 283: Adrian Ballinger — The Mental and Physical Grind of High-Altitude Climbing, and Lessons for Every Climber

Adrian Ballinger is a renowned alpinist and mountain guide, and has summited Mt. Everest and K2 without supplemental oxygen. We talked about his childhood, misconceptions about what he does, what clim...

15 Syys 20252h 11min

EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects

EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects

Kerwin Loukusa lives in Leavenworth, WA, and sent his first V12 and V13 last year while juggling a full-time job, wife, and two young kids. We talked about how he improved his flexibility to send the ...

1 Syys 20253h 53min

Something Different | Robb Wolf — Vitamin D, Zone 2 Cardio Hacks, Strength & Conditioning Timing, & Never Giving Up On Your Health

Something Different | Robb Wolf — Vitamin D, Zone 2 Cardio Hacks, Strength & Conditioning Timing, & Never Giving Up On Your Health

Robb Wolf is a 2x NYT Best-Selling Author (The Paleo Solution, Wired to Eat) and a leading voice in health, fitness, and nutrition. In this short segment, we cover the benefits of Vitamin D and Zone 2...

25 Elo 202536min

EP 281: Eryn Phelps — Healing Anxiety & Trauma, Navigating Time Scarcity, & Getting Clear on What You Want

EP 281: Eryn Phelps — Healing Anxiety & Trauma, Navigating Time Scarcity, & Getting Clear on What You Want

Eryn Phelps is a licensed trauma counselor who specializes in helping outdoor athletes with anxiety, OCD, and PTSD. We talked about how EMDR helped cancer survivor and podcast guest Sol Wertkin, how t...

18 Elo 20252h 39min

Follow-Up: Alex Bridgewater — 3 Sports Psychology Skills That Will Transform Your Climbing

Follow-Up: Alex Bridgewater — 3 Sports Psychology Skills That Will Transform Your Climbing

Alex Bridgewater (M.S. in Sports Psychology) is back again to share three new sports psychology skills that have the potential to change your climbing forever. We covered how to practice these skills ...

11 Elo 202530min

EP 280: Stevie Hochbaum — Sending Germany’s First V16, The Toll of Obsessive Projecting, and Transformation Through Climbing

EP 280: Stevie Hochbaum — Sending Germany’s First V16, The Toll of Obsessive Projecting, and Transformation Through Climbing

Stevie Hochbaum is an elite boulderer who established the first V16, Obsidian, in Germany. We talked about nearly losing his finger to an infection, how he became obsessed with the project, what it fe...

4 Elo 20252h 3min

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