EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects

EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects

Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more!

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Watch the Video Interview:

EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Uncut Video!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-lorenzi

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:15) – How to pronounce Simon

(00:02:56) – Claude Lorenzi

(00:05:37) – Early climbing

(00:08:02) – Discovering his potential

(00:10:12) – Focusing on the details

(00:11:31) – Becoming a 9A/V17 generalist

(00:15:06) – ‘Burden of Dreams’

(00:21:27) – The projecting bubble

(00:25:44) – Simon’s 9A+/V18 goal

(00:28:11) – Precision vs. finger strength

(00:29:17) – External pressure

(00:33:52) – Trying ‘Burden’ in -13 C

(00:36:09) – Optimism

(00:42:48) – Dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’

(00:45:07) – Training while projecting ‘Burden’

(00:49:47) – Projecting tactics

(00:51:25) – Lessons from his three 9A’s

(00:54:25) – How ‘Soudain Seul’ got it’s name

(00:59:11) – Kneebar + book tactics

(01:02:40) – His biggest lesson from ‘Soudain Seul’

(01:03:23) – The goal of struggling

(01:04:51) – ‘Big Conviction’, and bonding with his dad

(01:10:01) – Stress from his dad

(01:15:14) – Sport climbing goals

(01:17:31) – Future competition plans

(01:21:44) – How comps and outdoor projects complement each other

(01:26:10) – Training for comps vs. projects

(01:27:46) – Simon’s dream 9A+ project

(01:37:07) – Upcoming competitions

(01:40:40) – Repeating his dad’s 8c/5.14b

(01:42:18) – Support from his dad

(01:45:44) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Jaksot(383)

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

Another phone call with Ron Kauk.Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish:sacredrok.org

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EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4...

16 Syys 20241h 32min

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the p...

15 Syys 20241h 21min

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limi...

9 Syys 20242h 9min

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and ...

2 Syys 20241h 10min

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain...

27 Elo 20242h

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshop...

19 Elo 20241h 2min

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into s...

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