EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11

EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11

Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody’! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more!

Get coaching from Mat!

matwrightcoaching.com

Check out Kletterkalk UK!

kletterkalk.co.uk

Mat's go-to chalk, and a great option for folks in the UK and Europe!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wright-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:16) – Catch up and self-coaching

(00:08:58) – The dip after a hard send

(00:11:57) – Letting things come to you

(00:15:28) – His approach to ‘Rhapsody’ E11

(00:21:33) – Mindset and preparation

(00:24:22) – Making your own luck

(00:27:01) – Patience as a tactic

(00:31:51) – Top-down projecting

(00:36:15) – Feeding the climbing algorithm

(00:39:57) – Self 1 and self 2

(00:41:37) – The send

(00:44:54) – The process

(00:51:17) – The emotions after the send

(00:54:57) – Mat’s next project

(00:59:09) – Not taking it quite so seriously

(01:03:08) – Taking the pressure off

(01:11:00) – Taking time off

(01:18:37) – Less vs. more

(01:24:07) – Wrap up

Jaksot(382)

Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel. We talked about when to stick with a training program vs. when to pivot, lessons from ...

11 Marras 202121min

EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training

EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training

Nathaniel Coleman is the men’s silver medalist of the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about his preparation for the games, training in a climbing sauna, the Olympic experience and winning silver, favorite r...

8 Marras 20211h 48min

EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story

EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story

This is part 2 of my conversation with Tom Herbert. Tom shared some clarifications about part 1, we talked about the nervous system and the mind-body connection, how to relax before a session to impro...

1 Marras 20212h 32min

Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Natasha Barnes. We talked about how each of us has changed as climbers from gaining muscle mass, how ...

28 Loka 202122min

EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing

EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing

Tom Herbert is known as the usefulcoach, and is a leader in climbing sports nutrition. We talked about common themes in clients he works with, his philosophy of getting climbers to eat more calories t...

25 Loka 20212h 35min

EP 91: Craig DeMartino — Amputating His Leg to Climb Again, El Cap Stories, and Embracing a New Normal

EP 91: Craig DeMartino — Amputating His Leg to Climb Again, El Cap Stories, and Embracing a New Normal

Craig DeMartino is a rock climber, motivational speaker, and teacher. His life changed in 2002 when he took a 100-foot ground fall. We talked about Craig’s accident and recovery, the decision to amput...

18 Loka 20212h 43min

EP 90: Josh Wharton — Onsight Tips and Tricks, Training to Flash El Capitan, and Risk Assessment as a Parent

EP 90: Josh Wharton — Onsight Tips and Tricks, Training to Flash El Capitan, and Risk Assessment as a Parent

Josh Wharton is one of the most badass climbers you’ve never heard of. He does it all at an elite level. We talked about tips for hard flashing and onsighting, how alpine climbing relates to rock clim...

11 Loka 20212h 16min

EP 89: Q&A 3 — How My Training Has Evolved, How to Stay Strong on a Road Trip, and Life Mottos

EP 89: Q&A 3 — How My Training Has Evolved, How to Stay Strong on a Road Trip, and Life Mottos

In Q&A 3, I tackle patron questions about my two most successful winters of training on my home wall back in Bend, how my training has evolved and what it looks like now, how to maintain strength whil...

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