EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating

EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating

Alannah Yip is a professional climber from Canada who competed at the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about getting diagnosed with alopecia and the emotional journey of losing her hair, taking back her power, preparing for the Olympic Qualifying Series, lessons from Tokyo, mantras for slab boulders, her involvement with IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders and RED-S, her eating disorder as a teenager, why she plans to retire from comps, rock climbing goals, and much more!

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EP 220: Alannah Yip — Uncut Video!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alannah-yip

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:11) – Alopecia

(00:07:31) – Identity crisis

(00:11:33) – Deciding to shave her head

(00:12:55) – Taking back her power

(00:19:55) – Setting it on the back burner

(00:25:33) – Training camps

(00:30:23) – Alannah’s coaches

(00:33:47) – Training for Paris vs. Tokyo

(00:39:26) – Feelings about Tokyo

(00:42:08) – Lessons from Tokyo

(00:44:06) – Training with other women

(00:46:52) – Working on slab

(00:50:10) – The Olympic Qualifying Series

(00:55:00) – Olympic vs. World Cup lead style

(00:59:27) – Why she quit comps during college

(01:02:10) – Making the jump to World Cups

(01:04:35) – Reexamining her relationship with climbing as an adult

(01:08:54) – Engineering & coaching

(01:11:28) – Excited to retire from comps

(01:18:24) – IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders & RED-S

(01:30:05) – Self-reporting & BMI

(01:35:39) – Alannah’s eating disorder as a teenager

(01:41:53) – The turning point

(01:43:50) – Dealing with hard moments

(01:45:30) – Conflicted feelings about food

(01:48:13) – Alannah’s PSAs

(01:50:15) – My PSA

(01:53:03) – Mutual appreciation

(01:55:05) – What’s next

(01:56:24) – Rapid fire Qs

(02:01:21) – Occasionally on Instagram

(02:04:49) – Wrap up

Jaksot(384)

EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

Bob Wells (CheapRVLiving) is the ultimate vanlife guru. Bob has been living in vehicles full-time since 2008 and has helped thousands of others escape the 9-5 grind through his YouTube Channel and web...

28 Huhti 20251h 21min

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project...

21 Huhti 20252h 8min

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope...

15 Huhti 20252h 39min

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent re...

7 Huhti 20251h 23min

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climb...

1 Huhti 202529min

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her ...

24 Maalis 20252h 18min

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing...

17 Maalis 20251h 55min

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project,...

10 Maalis 20251h 51min

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