BOARD MEETINGS | Our Favorite Effective Finger Strength Protocols

BOARD MEETINGS | Our Favorite Effective Finger Strength Protocols

There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients.

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Finger Strength Resource Page

Eva Lopez | The Best Hangboard Protocol

Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?

Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

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📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00) Intro and Topic Explanation

(20:25) Long Duration Finger Health Hangs

(22:15) Multi-Grip Block Workout

(28:07) Eva Lopez MAW and MED Hangs

(33:27) Too Easy to Fail (2 Hangs per Session)

(38:32) Offset Hangs or Pulls on a Hangboard or Bouldering Wall

(44:07) 6:10 Repeaters

(56:28) 5:55 Three Finger Alternating Hangs

(1:02:12) Three Max Hangs of 6 Seconds Each

(1:08:43) Outro

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Jaksot(402)

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most OVERRATED Climbing Training Methods

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most OVERRATED Climbing Training Methods

In an ideal world, we'd value climbing training methods based on how well they actually work, but that's not reality. Instead, climbing training goes in trends. What that means is that we both overrat...

2 Kesä 57min

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Session To Improve Climbing Movement Skill

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Session To Improve Climbing Movement Skill

Drills aren't the only way to improve your climbing movement skill and technique. In fact, there's a much simpler way. This is Part 4 of 4 videos detailing the simplest effective way to train for clim...

12 Touko 17min

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most UNDERRATED Climbing Training Methods

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most UNDERRATED Climbing Training Methods

In an ideal world, we'd value climbing training methods based on how well they actually work, but like it or not, climbing training goes in trends. What that means is that we both overrate and underra...

5 Touko 1h 2min

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a "Do More" Climbing Endurance Training Session

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a "Do More" Climbing Endurance Training Session

Effective doesn't need to be complicated. This is Part 3 of 4 videos detailing the simplest effective way to train for climbing. In this video, we cover the Do More session. WATCH IT ON YOUTUBE➡️ http...

21 Huhti 16min

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a Go Hard Bouldering Session

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a Go Hard Bouldering Session

Effective doesn't need to be complicated. This is Part 2 of 4 videos detailing the simplest effective way to train for climbing. In this video, we cover the Go Hard session. WATCH IT ON YOUTUBE➡️ http...

24 Maalis 15min

Juliet Hammer | A Better Relationship With Climbing Grades (Especially if You're Short)

Juliet Hammer | A Better Relationship With Climbing Grades (Especially if You're Short)

Like it or not, grades are a part of climbing, and I've recently been exploring how to have a good relationship with them. In that exploration, I've decided on a range that I believe any given grade r...

10 Maalis 1h 31min

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Climbing Training

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Climbing Training

➡️ WATCH IT ON YOUTUBE ➡️ FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT ➡️ ASSESS AND IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE ➡️ TAKE THE GUESSWORK OUT OF TRAINING Most "simple" training plans are actually fairly complicated when compared ...

24 Helmi 10min

TAPED TIPS | What Climbers Get Wrong About Microbeta (And What We Can Do Better)

TAPED TIPS | What Climbers Get Wrong About Microbeta (And What We Can Do Better)

When climbers work a project, the process often goes straight from beta discovery to dialing in microbeta. This isn't wrong, but might be missing some important pieces.  Watch it on YouTube ➡️ASSESS A...

9 Helmi 11min

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