EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’

EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut Video

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjong

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:25) – Justen’s climbing background

(00:07:27) – Fear and anxiety

(00:11:30) – Some of Justen’s hardest routes

(00:14:55) – Defining “technique”

(00:18:05) – Defining “effective” & “efficient”

(00:21:14) – Reflection & confidence

(00:26:22) – Our three batteries

(00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate

(00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique

(00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop

(01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop

(01:11:44) – Structuring practice

(01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop

(01:16:48) – Alex Puccio’s posture

(01:19:17) – Getting into the moment

(01:21:00) – Three questions

(01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling

(01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique

(01:35:47) – Sending things faster

(01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats

(01:50:43) – Board climbers

(01:54:06) – Watching & noticing

(01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’

(02:01:13) – Justen’s big goal

(02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing

(02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets

(02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Jaksot(382)

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

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EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

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EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

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EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

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​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

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EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

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EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

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EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

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