EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’

EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut Video

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjong

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:25) – Justen’s climbing background

(00:07:27) – Fear and anxiety

(00:11:30) – Some of Justen’s hardest routes

(00:14:55) – Defining “technique”

(00:18:05) – Defining “effective” & “efficient”

(00:21:14) – Reflection & confidence

(00:26:22) – Our three batteries

(00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate

(00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique

(00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop

(01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop

(01:11:44) – Structuring practice

(01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop

(01:16:48) – Alex Puccio’s posture

(01:19:17) – Getting into the moment

(01:21:00) – Three questions

(01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling

(01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique

(01:35:47) – Sending things faster

(01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats

(01:50:43) – Board climbers

(01:54:06) – Watching & noticing

(01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’

(02:01:13) – Justen’s big goal

(02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing

(02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets

(02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Jaksot(383)

EP 254: Best of 2024 (Including the Best of Patreon)

EP 254: Best of 2024 (Including the Best of Patreon)

This is a collection of my favorite moments of the podcast from 2024, including some of the best Patreon segments. Enjoy!Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscriptio...

23 Joulu 20242h 32min

EP 253: April Davidson (yeahapril) — Living With a Blind Man, a Decade of Addiction, and Seeking Your Fullest Life

EP 253: April Davidson (yeahapril) — Living With a Blind Man, a Decade of Addiction, and Seeking Your Fullest Life

April Davidson (yeahapril) is a rock climber and content creator. We talked about what it is like living with her blind fiance Justin Salas, growing up and moving to LA, losing her mom, opiate addicti...

16 Joulu 20242h 12min

EP 252: Justin Salas — Life As a Legally Blind Climber, Building Mental Maps, and Being a Changemaker

EP 252: Justin Salas — Life As a Legally Blind Climber, Building Mental Maps, and Being a Changemaker

Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He’s also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psycholo...

9 Joulu 20243h 13min

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, se...

2 Joulu 20242h 25min

EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with M...

25 Marras 20241h 58min

EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot

EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot

Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinven...

18 Marras 20242h 28min

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux...

11 Marras 20242h 14min

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can...

4 Marras 202435min

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