EP 228: How to Easily Improve Your Flexibility for Climbing — Josh Hadley (Lattice Training)

EP 228: How to Easily Improve Your Flexibility for Climbing — Josh Hadley (Lattice Training)

Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I’ve struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, weighted stretching, tempo, contract and relax, reducing friction, best times to stretch, and more. We also covered his recent CARCing experiment and other topics. Enjoy!

Flex Master Discount:

Use code NUGGET20 to get 20% off the Flex Master Bundle

latticetraining.com/product/flex-master-bundle-stretching-tools

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 228: Josh Hadley — Uncut Video

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Check out the Tension Board 2!

tensionboard.com/nugget

Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!

Check out Crimpd!

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!

physivantage.com/discount/NUG20

Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!

The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-hadley

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:59) – CARCing

(00:10:38) – Unstructured training

(00:12:13) – How Josh became the flexibility guy

(00:17:47) – Bringing critical force testing to Lattice

(00:25:25) – Flexibility assessments

(00:32:14) – Abduction

(00:32:44) – Buy in for flexibility training

(00:41:47) – How often do you need to train flexibility

(00:44:19) – The #1 flexibility exercise for boulderers (pancake)

(00:47:57) – Weighted & PNF stretching

(00:53:36) – Josh’s flexibility progress

(00:59:40) – Morphology limitations

(01:03:11) – Standing Pancake

(01:08:56) – Chasing horizontal

(01:13:43) – Tasking & motivation

(01:16:40) – Pancake stance width

(01:18:11) – Progressing the weight & tempo stretching

(01:24:51) – Do you have to warm up for flexibility training?

(01:27:40) – Pancake protocol

(01:30:06) – How Josh builds a flexibility session

(01:34:11) – Mobility vs. flexibility

(01:39:58) – Calve stretching

(01:46:01) – 4 stretches for inflexible climbers

(01:52:24) – Reducing friction

(01:55:00) – Stretching doesn’t have to look like climbing

(01:56:57) – PNF or contract-relax stretching

(02:00:57) – Best times to stretch

(02:04:41) – Breathing

(02:07:14) – When to switch to maintenance

(02:11:40) – What running does to your flexibility

(02:12:54) – Josh’s climbing & BJJ

(02:19:17) – The impact of flexibility on Josh’s climbing

(02:22:07) – Josh’s final advice

(02:25:32) – YouTube experimenting

(02:27:49) – Wrap up

Tämä jakso on lisätty Podme-palveluun avoimen RSS-syötteen kautta eikä se ole Podmen omaa tuotantoa. Siksi jakso saattaa sisältää mainontaa.

Jaksot(390)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

25 Touko 1h 1min

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Touko 2h 9min

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Huhti 2h 7min

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, ...

14 Huhti 54min

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first asce...

7 Huhti 1h 46min

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a soc...

23 Maalis 1h 55min

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

Melissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the o...

9 Maalis 1h 30min

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helpe...

23 Helmi 2h 4min

Suosittua kategoriassa Koulutus

rss-murhan-anatomia
psykopodiaa-podcast
voi-hyvin-meditaatiot-2
kesken
rss-valo-minussa-2
rss-liian-kuuma-peruna
rss-narsisti
rss-niinku-asia-on
rss-rahamania
adhd-podi
psykologia
rss-vapaudu-voimaasi
aamukahvilla
rss-laadukasta-ensihoitoa
rss-mentalrace
rss-arkea-ja-aurinkoa-podcast-espanjasta
rss-hereilla
rahapuhetta
puhutaan-koiraa
ihminen-tavattavissa-tommy-hellsten-instituutti