EP 230: Emma Hunt (Olympian) — Why Speed Climbing is Legit, the Mental Game & Strategy of Racing, & Chasing World Records

EP 230: Emma Hunt (Olympian) — Why Speed Climbing is Legit, the Mental Game & Strategy of Racing, & Chasing World Records

Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed route will ever change, why speed is cool, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 230: Emma Hunt — Uncut Video

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emma-hunt

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:50) – Emma’s intro to climbing & speed

(00:04:08) – “I just wanna go fast.”

(00:06:48) – Keeping the fire lit

(00:09:28) – Beta changes

(00:12:08) – The Start, Dyno, and Top

(00:13:10) – Speed nerds

(00:16:19) – A rock climber first

(00:18:10) – Post-Olympic plans

(00:20:41) – How strong are speed climbers?

(00:23:25) – How speed climbers train

(00:28:42) – Training sections of the speed route

(00:30:14) – Off-the-wall training

(00:31:56) – Her coaches

(00:35:06) – Speed shoes

(00:44:59) – Other sports

(00:46:27) – Rock climbing as a kid

(00:48:27) – What makes Emma so good at speed

(00:49:58) – Pre-race rituals

(00:51:36) – Speed mental game

(00:56:37) – Olympic vs. World Cup format

(00:59:06) – Seeds & sides

(01:00:39) – Strategy

(01:05:01) – Riding waves

(01:11:28) – More about the Olympic format

(01:13:18) – Speed prejudice & Toyko combined format

(01:27:51) – Future Bouldering & Lead comps

(01:29:20) – Speed climbing in the mainstream

(01:35:22) – We celebrate gold

(01:40:39) – Barriers to speed

(01:42:30) – Emma’s fastest time & goals

(01:44:49) – Will the speed route ever change?

(01:51:56) – 50-year-old goals

(01:53:45) – Rapid fire questions

(02:07:51) – Speed is cool

Jaksot(382)

EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading

EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading

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Follow-Up: Mercedes Pollmeier — Your Flexibility Questions Answered (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Mercedes Pollmeier — Your Flexibility Questions Answered (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mercedes Pollmeier. I asked for clarifications about the J-Curl and passive stretching, and we tackled P...

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EP 66: Mercedes Pollmeier — How to Improve Flexibility in 6 Minutes Per Day, and Cycling Your Training

EP 66: Mercedes Pollmeier — How to Improve Flexibility in 6 Minutes Per Day, and Cycling Your Training

Mercedes Pollmeier is a climbing coach with a master’s in human movement. We discussed key stretches for climbers, how to warm up for a limit session, whether or not static stretching reduces power, h...

26 Huhti 20212h 9min

BONUS: Matt Sparks — Earth Day, and the Impacts of Chalk

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In this bonus episode, Matt Sparks joins me to celebrate Earth Day by talking about the environmental impacts of chalk, best practices, and by offering listeners a discount for Pika liquid chalk. Shop...

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EP 65: Natalie Duran — Ninja Antics, Fear Conditioning, and Living Like a Superhero

EP 65: Natalie Duran — Ninja Antics, Fear Conditioning, and Living Like a Superhero

Natalie Duran is a “Proish Climber”, Ninja Warrior finalist, Guinness World Record holder, television host, actor, influencer, and scientist. We talked about her new rollerskates, growing up with the ...

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Follow-Up: Jon Glassberg — Sending ‘The Nest’, and Representing for the Big Guys (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Jon Glassberg — Sending ‘The Nest’, and Representing for the Big Guys (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jon Glassberg. We talked about sending ‘The Nest’ (his first V15) and breaking down barriers as a “big” ...

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EP 64: Christophe Bichet — Climbing As a Metaphor for Life, Finding ‘Why’, and the Awe of Being Alive

EP 64: Christophe Bichet — Climbing As a Metaphor for Life, Finding ‘Why’, and the Awe of Being Alive

Christophe Bichet is a world-class rock climber and a motivational speaker. He was born with a rare blood disorder called Fanconi Anemia and is also a cancer survivor. We talked about climbing as a me...

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EP 63: Megan Mascarenas — Solving Puzzles, Pole Dancing, and Discovering a New Identity

EP 63: Megan Mascarenas — Solving Puzzles, Pole Dancing, and Discovering a New Identity

Megan Mascarenas is a multiple-time World Cup gold medalist and the 2016 Open National Champion in bouldering. She is currently 23 years old. We talked about her fascination with puzzles, why she reti...

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