EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords.

Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard design.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app.

Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.

BetterHelp:

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-1

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:14) – Our board climbing experience

(00:05:42) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Treat it like training (pay attention to weekly volume and progress it slowly)

(00:07:09) – Bonus Tip: Keep board sessions short when training power

(00:10:21) – Steven’s Tip #1: Have a clear plan for your session (and develop 2-3 go-to session formats that work well for you)

(00:11:39) – Example board session formats

(00:13:45) – Wall crawls (aka crimp crawls) & Jesse’s 3x3 session

(00:15:32) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Be creative and use the whole board as a tool (use extra holds/feet to learn hard moves)

(00:22:44) – Steven’s Tip #2: Don’t be afraid to break the rules

(00:25:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Jesse shares his methodology for teaching V4/5 clients how to use the Moonboard

(00:29:32) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do what you can do consistently and build on it slowly over time

(00:31:38) – Bonus Tip: Work hard moves backwards, and jump from the ground to practice latching

(00:32:53) – Bonus Tip: Find a TB2 to climb on (and why I chose the TB2)

(00:34:01) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Using your board as your only form of climbing

(00:37:59) – More about wall crawls (aka crimp crawls)

(00:39:03) – More love for the TB2

(00:44:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Taking board grades too seriously

(00:47:49) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Using board grades to downgrade outdoor climbs

(00:49:04) – Benchmark rants

(00:50:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much too fast

(00:53:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much of the same thing

(00:54:44) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much off-the-wall finger training in conjunction with board climbing

(00:56:56) – One thing I like to do on the hangboard if I’m board training a lot

(00:57:48) – You need a reason to train things

(00:59:17) – Using wall crawls to maintain finger strength

(01:00:38) – Wrap up

Jaksot(382)

EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)

EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)

Dr. David Spiegel is a Stanford psychiatrist and one of the world’s most respected experts in the field of hypnosis. We talked about how our minds can make our bodies feel better, how hypnosis has hel...

6 Touko 20242h

EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training

EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training

This is a full bonus episode for Patrons! Maddy and I catch up about our weekend sends, Maddy shares a few key nuggets from our main episode, and then gives us a 2-hour masterclass in endurance traini...

3 Touko 20241h 2min

EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out

EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out

Maddy Cope is a world-class rock climber and the head of education for Lattice Training. We talked about Maddy’s transition from dancing to climbing, living in a shack in the woods in Chamonix, and le...

29 Huhti 20242h 39min

EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans

EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans

Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his fi...

22 Huhti 20242h 16min

EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)

EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)

Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negat...

15 Huhti 20241h 59min

EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects

EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects

Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of D...

8 Huhti 20241h 49min

EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films

EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films

Carlos Mason is a filmmaker and the creator of SENDING, a new film featuring Ethan Pringle, Anna Hazelnutt, and Dan Beall. We talked about how a car commercial inspired this unique film, why he chose ...

1 Huhti 20241h 35min

EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury

EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury

Davis Ngo (dr.climb) is a climber, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and Instagram personality. We talked about his upbringing as a first-generation Vietnamese American, blowing up on Instagram, why Sean Ba...

25 Maalis 20242h 7min

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