EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain a healthy spine, how emotions and stress affect our pain, psychedelic experiences, the pain, tension, and fear triangle, ways to empty your stress bucket, and much more.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Uncut Videos

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amy-fruge

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:26) – Pregnancy & maternity leave

(00:04:05) – Overview

(00:05:31) – Amy’s martial arts background

(00:10:21) – Confidence

(00:13:29) – Point sparring & boxing

(00:18:14) – Pivoting to climbing

(00:22:24) – How Amy’s athletic background informs her work with climbers

(00:24:25) – Starting her Physical Therapy business during covid

(00:27:13) – Radiculopathy

(00:28:59) – Elbow & finger pain from the spine

(00:39:53) – A pulley injury that turned out to be from the spine

(00:47:00) – Be careful how you snuggle

(00:49:06) – How to maintain a healthy spine

(00:52:44) – Shoulder pain & directional preference

(00:59:37) – Go-to tells of spinal issues

(01:01:15) – Finding a provider

(01:02:39) – How emotions & stress affect our pain

(01:09:08) – The bucket analogy

(01:10:23) – Pain is protective

(01:11:37) – Stress & mindset

(01:18:27) – Science vs. woowoo, & left vs. right

(01:23:09) – Psychedelic-assisted therapy

(01:27:48) – My psychedelic experiences

(01:29:26) – Another client success story

(01:36:58) – The pain, tension, & fear triangle

(01:40:54) – Ways to empty your stress bucket

(01:47:17) – Our many different buckets, & introverts vs. extroverts

(01:51:20) – Be more like a dog

(01:54:42) – Wrap up

Jaksot(383)

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

Another phone call with Ron Kauk.Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish:sacredrok.org

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EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4...

16 Syys 20241h 32min

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the p...

15 Syys 20241h 21min

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limi...

9 Syys 20242h 9min

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and ...

2 Syys 20241h 10min

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshop...

19 Elo 20241h 2min

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into s...

19 Elo 20245min

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