EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and sharing climbs, mastering benchmark climbs, how to iterate on your climbs for incremental progress, hacks for building a home wall on a budget, and more.

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Revival Climbing Coalition:

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EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

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  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-2

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:20) – Best spray walls

(00:05:46) – Terrain drives technique

(00:08:00) – Choosing a wall angle

(00:10:07) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Home wall setup considerations (Use a mix of good and bad holds, a mix of textures, complement your local area, etc.)

(00:13:05) – Steven’s Tip #1: Build yourself a repertoire of quality climbs, and try to master them

(00:17:45) – Bonus Tip: Cluster holds to build skills and learn movement

(00:19:12) – Bonus Tip: Iterate on your climbs for incremental progression

(00:24:52) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Supercharge your sessions with route setting

(00:27:59) – Steven’s Tip #2: Work on climbs that are hard for different reasons

(00:28:57) – Bonus Tip: Set chaotically (i.e. Set boulders without trying the moves, and try not to tweak them)

(00:33:17) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Do not underestimate the value of a short session on a home wall

(00:35:52) – Steven’s Tip #3: Circuits!

(00:40:13) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Make wood holds to save money

(00:43:27) – Steven’s Tip #4: Set foot moves

(00:49:23) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Always trying new stuff and having crap sessions

(00:52:08) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right mix of holds for the skill level

(00:54:33) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not keeping track of your sessions

(00:55:51) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not stopping when you power down (i.e. climbing too much and getting injured)

(00:57:40) – Sandbagging on spray walls, and trusting your eyes

(00:59:42) – Steven’s Pitfall # 3: Only having big blobby footholds

(01:02:03) – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Not making your home wall cool (plus tips for building a cool home wall on a budget)

(01:07:32) – Quantum leaps

Jaksot(382)

EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses

EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses

Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to cre...

23 Elo 20211h 45min

EP 82: Christine Deyo — Learning Creativity, Fontainebleau Circuits, and the Role of Diversity in Route Setting

EP 82: Christine Deyo — Learning Creativity, Fontainebleau Circuits, and the Role of Diversity in Route Setting

Christine Deyo is a professional route setter, and the former head route setter at the Austin Bouldering Project. We talked about Christine’s path to route setting, learning to be creative, setting ch...

16 Elo 20212h 23min

Follow-Up: Dru Mack — Play Hard. Rest Hard. (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Dru Mack — Play Hard. Rest Hard. (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Dru Mack. We talked about how his approach has changed since our first conversation, the process of send...

12 Elo 202126min

EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’

EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’

Hazel Findlay is a professional climber and mental training coach from the UK, known for her boldness on dangerous and difficult trad routes. We talked about common themes in mental coaching, how the ...

9 Elo 20211h 31min

EP 80: Robb Wolf — Prioritizing Protein, the Importance of Sleep, and a Case for a Meat Inclusive Diet

EP 80: Robb Wolf — Prioritizing Protein, the Importance of Sleep, and a Case for a Meat Inclusive Diet

Robb Wolf is a former research biochemist and 2x New York Times best-selling author of The Paleo Solution and Wired To Eat. We talked about his breakfast, how he tackles nutrition with his two kids, h...

2 Elo 20211h 35min

Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ron Kauk. We tackled listener questions about bouldering without crash pads, favorite routes, the legend...

29 Heinä 202132min

EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating

EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating

Dr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be ...

26 Heinä 20212h 1min

EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets

EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets

Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his p...

19 Heinä 20211h 44min

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