EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Uncut Video

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:59) – The 200 lb grip goal

(00:07:31) – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking

(00:11:28) – Limiting factors

(00:12:15) – The Sport Audit

(00:15:13) – Joint angles for edge lifting

(00:19:19) – Specializing

(00:20:36) – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength

(00:21:18) – More on specialization

(00:22:51) – Forearm hypertrophy exercises

(00:24:58) – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isometrics

(00:30:33) – Grip positions for different goals

(00:36:07) – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training

(00:38:29) – How to build a 3-month grip training program

(00:45:56) – Yves’ edge lifting protocols

(00:53:35) – When to progress weight

(00:54:50) – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test

(00:56:20) – When to change your training schedule

(00:58:23) – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week)

(01:00:08) – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains

(01:04:27) – Lazy athletes get strong

(01:05:29) – Repeaters

(01:07:44) – Changing your schedule or program

(01:10:48) – My takeaways so far

(01:12:02) – How to combine board sessions with finger training

(01:20:04) – Training for a 23-move boulder

(01:22:44) – Pacing & effeciency

(01:25:37) – Summary of my example training plan

(01:35:12) – More about repeaters

(01:40:46) – How to maintain finger strength in season

(01:48:05) – Yves’ recent grip comp & climbing goals

(01:55:22) – Yves’ gap analysis for comps

(01:57:15) – Planning & process goals

(01:59:05) – Yves’ job as a special effects artist

(02:01:06) – Yves’ YouTube channel

(02:01:54) – Climbers getting into grip sports

(02:02:47) – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip

(02:05:45) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons

Jaksot(382)

EP 253: April Davidson (yeahapril) — Living With a Blind Man, a Decade of Addiction, and Seeking Your Fullest Life

EP 253: April Davidson (yeahapril) — Living With a Blind Man, a Decade of Addiction, and Seeking Your Fullest Life

April Davidson (yeahapril) is a rock climber and content creator. We talked about what it is like living with her blind fiance Justin Salas, growing up and moving to LA, losing her mom, opiate addicti...

16 Joulu 20242h 12min

EP 252: Justin Salas — Life As a Legally Blind Climber, Building Mental Maps, and Being a Changemaker

EP 252: Justin Salas — Life As a Legally Blind Climber, Building Mental Maps, and Being a Changemaker

Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He’s also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psycholo...

9 Joulu 20243h 13min

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, se...

2 Joulu 20242h 25min

EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with M...

25 Marras 20241h 58min

EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot

EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot

Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinven...

18 Marras 20242h 28min

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux...

11 Marras 20242h 14min

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can...

4 Marras 202435min

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue p...

28 Loka 20241h 22min

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