Coach Justen Sjong: Perfection is NOT the Goal, Mental Tactics, Tapping into Breath, and Climbing Performance Hacks

Coach Justen Sjong: Perfection is NOT the Goal, Mental Tactics, Tapping into Breath, and Climbing Performance Hacks

Climbing Coach Justen Sjong joins to discuss:

  • Two types of climbers (engineer and artist)
  • Tapping into breath as our engine
  • The hidden superpower of being in sync with your belayer
  • Identifying Technical vs Mental strengths / weaknesses
  • Perfection is NOT the goal (but what is?)
  • What our bodies do on the wall when we become scared to try
  • How a rowing machine can become a performance hack
  • A trick to preparing fingers to handle the pain of small holds
  • The difference between visualizing and rehearsing

Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!):

patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Connect with Justen for coaching at www.climbing-sensei.com

Check out Justen's coaching videos: www.instagram.com/justensjong

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

  • Rungne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 15% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne!
  • MAXIM: The best ropes in the game! Ultra-light, ultra-reliable, and ultra-durable. Check out the Airliner (my favorite) and all their ropes at your local gear shop and on the MAXIM site.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @justensjong

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

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Dr. Thomas Cunningham, MD: Pro Clinic on Supplementation and Biohacking to Boost Strength, Recover Faster, Improve Endurance, and Feel Better

Dr. Thomas Cunningham, MD: Pro Clinic on Supplementation and Biohacking to Boost Strength, Recover Faster, Improve Endurance, and Feel Better

In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Thomas Cunningham, MD covers: Clinical trials and studies that show the most promise for enhancing performance and health on and off the rock Supplements and biohacks that r...

25 Syys 202441min

Cedar Wright: Suffering with Honnold, the Future of Free Soloing, Dirtbagging, Paragliding, and Boogie Til You Poop

Cedar Wright: Suffering with Honnold, the Future of Free Soloing, Dirtbagging, Paragliding, and Boogie Til You Poop

Elite climber Cedar Wright shares epic stories of suffering with Alex Honnold, learning the ways of Yosemite, Paragliding competitions, Free Soloing culture, and what it means to be a dirtbag. Plus, B...

18 Syys 20241h 28min

Finger Training 2.0 with Zachary Laschober of Specialized Masochism

Finger Training 2.0 with Zachary Laschober of Specialized Masochism

Climbing Coach Zachary Laschober joins to discuss: Sports-specific versus non-sport-specific finger training Limitations of the "standard" 20mm flat edge Hand and finger physiology for optimal pe...

11 Syys 20241h 18min

Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Finger Injuries, How to Focus Our Training, Naked in Nature, Dating Apps, and Dick Jokes

Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Finger Injuries, How to Focus Our Training, Naked in Nature, Dating Apps, and Dick Jokes

Anna Hazelnutt is back with another Crag Chat packed with laughs, musings, updates, struggles, beta, and whatever else is on our minds, including: The climbing posters that hung on Anna’s childhood wa...

4 Syys 20241h 16min

Kai Lightner: Sending 5.15a and Beyond, Adapting to a Bigger Body, Competitor's Mindset, and the Future of Climbing

Kai Lightner: Sending 5.15a and Beyond, Adapting to a Bigger Body, Competitor's Mindset, and the Future of Climbing

Elite climber Kai Lightner shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAP...

28 Elo 20241h 29min

Useful Coach Tom Herbert: Pro Clinic on Fueling for Better Performance, Recovering Faster, and a Method to Cut Weight Without Cutting Calories

Useful Coach Tom Herbert: Pro Clinic on Fueling for Better Performance, Recovering Faster, and a Method to Cut Weight Without Cutting Calories

In this Pro Clinic, Tom Herbert covers: How to "stack" carbs and protein around a workout Getting a head start on recovery after a hard sesh How nutrition changes for "on" days vs "off" days The bias ...

21 Elo 202436min

Matt Samet: Building Strength and Power, Being Coached by Nina Williams, Redpoint Tactics, and Dealing with Anxiety On and Off the Rock

Matt Samet: Building Strength and Power, Being Coached by Nina Williams, Redpoint Tactics, and Dealing with Anxiety On and Off the Rock

Elite climber Matt Samet shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTE...

14 Elo 20241h 36min

Road to 13a with Eric Hörst: Part IV

Road to 13a with Eric Hörst: Part IV

Coach Eric Hörst is back to coach Ryan on his hardest project to date, his first 13a. This beta-packed conversation covers: What went right and wrong on Ryan's almost-send last season How to carry a p...

7 Elo 20241h 32min

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