EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, why he is practicing his kneebar skills, future 9b+ and 9c projects, what it meant to him to send Bibliographie, his America Tour in 2013, how onsighting Estado Critico changed his career, making changes to reach his full potential, how many carrots he eats in a day, future competition goals, and more.

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EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-megos

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:38) – Change 9b+, kneebars, and two 9a’s

(00:09:35) – His 9b project in Flatanger

(00:10:26) – 9b+ & 9c projects

(00:14:45) – Bibliographie

(00:20:00) – Germans are easy to talk to

(00:21:08) – The America Tour

(00:34:59) – Becoming a professional climber

(00:38:07) – Onsighting Estado Critico 9a

(00:43:59) – Fighting his way up Change

(00:45:51) – Leg pump

(00:46:55) – Falling in love with Norway

(00:48:38) – The stress of projecting in Flatanger

(00:50:01) – His peak shape in 2017

(00:52:34) – Resting more to reach his full potential

(00:55:47) – 13 training sessions in a week

(00:57:34) – Working on climbing with less tape

(01:02:59) – Going vegan to sweat less, & avoiding processed food

(01:05:50) – Carrot consumption

(01:07:51) – Olympics

(01:11:31) – Bouldering competitions

(01:12:51) – The board master

(01:14:37) – Outdoor bouldering

(01:16:00) – Wrap up

Jaksot(381)

EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1) — Jumping Up 4 Grades in 18 Months, Fingerboard Rituals, and Nutrient Density

EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1) — Jumping Up 4 Grades in 18 Months, Fingerboard Rituals, and Nutrient Density

Dave MacLeod is a professional climber from Scotland and might be the best all-around climber in the world. Dave also has two master’s degrees and has authored two books. We talked about improving fro...

22 Helmi 20211h 41min

BONUS: Blake Cason — Upcoming Retreats

BONUS: Blake Cason — Upcoming Retreats

In this bonus episode, I chat with Blake Cason about ClimbWell, and upcoming retreats for Spring 2021. Blake explains what ClimbWell is all about, who the retreats are for, what to expect from this 4-...

18 Helmi 202124min

Follow-Up: Blake Cason — Dancing with ‘Joe SixPack’ (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Blake Cason — Dancing with ‘Joe SixPack’ (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Blake Cason. We talked about sending her multi-season project ‘Joe SixPack’ at the VRG, transitioning in...

18 Helmi 202110min

EP 55: Kai Lightner — Disordered Eating, Flexibility for Tall Climbers, and Climbing for Change

EP 55: Kai Lightner — Disordered Eating, Flexibility for Tall Climbers, and Climbing for Change

Kai Lightner is a professional climber and the founder of Climbing for Change. We talked about how Kai discovered climbing, his reflections on an eating disorder, the importance of flexibility for tal...

15 Helmi 20211h 39min

EP 54: Matt Segal — ‘Miami Vice’, Coffee with Benefits, and a Brief Stint with Paragliding

EP 54: Matt Segal — ‘Miami Vice’, Coffee with Benefits, and a Brief Stint with Paragliding

Matt Segal is a professional rock climber and the founder/owner of Alpine Start, a company that makes “Instant Coffee That Actually Tastes Good”. We talked about how Matt got started in climbing, his ...

8 Helmi 20211h 22min

Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mike Doyle. We talked about some of the exercises that have helped Mike in his recovery from his elbow i...

4 Helmi 202114min

EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts

EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts

This is part 2 of my conversation with Jon Glassberg. We talked about flexibility training, how Jon uses the MoonBoard and why he thinks it is such a useful tool, why how he structures a six-week trai...

1 Helmi 20211h 24min

EP 52: Jon Glassberg (Part 1) — Filming Emily Harrington on ‘Golden Gate’, and Pursuing V15

EP 52: Jon Glassberg (Part 1) — Filming Emily Harrington on ‘Golden Gate’, and Pursuing V15

Jon Glassberg is the owner of Louder Than Eleven, a leading media production company in the Outdoor Industry. He is also a total crusher, having climbed 400+ boulders from V10 to V14. In part one we t...

25 Tammi 20212h 5min

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