EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, why he is practicing his kneebar skills, future 9b+ and 9c projects, what it meant to him to send Bibliographie, his America Tour in 2013, how onsighting Estado Critico changed his career, making changes to reach his full potential, how many carrots he eats in a day, future competition goals, and more.

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EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-megos

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:38) – Change 9b+, kneebars, and two 9a’s

(00:09:35) – His 9b project in Flatanger

(00:10:26) – 9b+ & 9c projects

(00:14:45) – Bibliographie

(00:20:00) – Germans are easy to talk to

(00:21:08) – The America Tour

(00:34:59) – Becoming a professional climber

(00:38:07) – Onsighting Estado Critico 9a

(00:43:59) – Fighting his way up Change

(00:45:51) – Leg pump

(00:46:55) – Falling in love with Norway

(00:48:38) – The stress of projecting in Flatanger

(00:50:01) – His peak shape in 2017

(00:52:34) – Resting more to reach his full potential

(00:55:47) – 13 training sessions in a week

(00:57:34) – Working on climbing with less tape

(01:02:59) – Going vegan to sweat less, & avoiding processed food

(01:05:50) – Carrot consumption

(01:07:51) – Olympics

(01:11:31) – Bouldering competitions

(01:12:51) – The board master

(01:14:37) – Outdoor bouldering

(01:16:00) – Wrap up

Jaksot(381)

EP 43: Emily Harrington — Projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a Day, Embracing Fear, and Cupcake Batter Ice Cream

EP 43: Emily Harrington — Projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a Day, Embracing Fear, and Cupcake Batter Ice Cream

Emily Harrington is a professional climber whose accomplishments span the climbing spectrum. From winning National Championships, to summiting Mt. Everest, to free climbing El Capitan, Emily has done ...

9 Marras 202059min

EP 42: Hailey Franklin Fultz — Strength + Nutrition, Fat Loss Strategies, and “Healthifying” Dessert

EP 42: Hailey Franklin Fultz — Strength + Nutrition, Fat Loss Strategies, and “Healthifying” Dessert

Hailey Franklin Fultz is a former competitive dancer, and a nutrition coach. For the past five years, she has used nutrition to help Matt Fultz (her husband) become one of the top boulderers in the wo...

2 Marras 20202h 1min

Follow-Up: Drew Ruana — Recent V16s (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Drew Ruana — Recent V16s (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Drew Ruana. We talked about his process of sending 'Box Therapy' and 'Creature From the Black Lagoon', a...

29 Loka 20208min

EP 41: Tonde Katiyo (Part 2) — RIC as a Tool, the Value of Route Setting, and Keeping Training in Perspective

EP 41: Tonde Katiyo (Part 2) — RIC as a Tool, the Value of Route Setting, and Keeping Training in Perspective

This is part 2 of my conversation with Tonde Katiyo. We talked about RIC (Risk, Intensity, Complexity) as a tool for communicating about difficulty, about the appropriate responses to different types ...

26 Loka 20201h 13min

EP 40: Tonde Katiyo (Part 1) — Discrimination vs. Privilege, and Making a Better World by Making Better Climbing

EP 40: Tonde Katiyo (Part 1) — Discrimination vs. Privilege, and Making a Better World by Making Better Climbing

Tonde Katiyo is a professional route setter, a passionate climber, a father, and a coach. His mother is French and his father is Zimbabwean. We talked about the connection between route setting and co...

19 Loka 20201h 35min

Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ethan Pringle. We talked about surfing, about the stories we tell ourselves about what we can and can’t ...

16 Loka 202018min

EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift

EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift

Matt Fultz is a professional climber who is at the top of the bouldering game right now. We talked about sending ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, a typical day of projecting, deadlifting for finger strength, p...

12 Loka 20201h 2min

EP 38: Solomon Barth — Up-Down-Ups, Veganism, and Working to Live (and Make a Difference)

EP 38: Solomon Barth — Up-Down-Ups, Veganism, and Working to Live (and Make a Difference)

Solomon Barth is a Stanford University graduate and software engineer. We talked about Solomon’s impressive two-week trip to Smith Rock, working with Alex Bridgewater to improve his footwork and bulle...

5 Loka 20201h 26min

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