EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/molly-beard

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:34) – The Murder Room

(00:06:01) – How I met Molly 15 years ago

(00:10:02) – Molly’s background

(00:12:50) – Climbing gyms in the 90s

(00:14:45) – The language of movement

(00:20:54) – Becoming the puppet master

(00:29:14) – Routesetting in the 90s

(00:32:35) – Getting paid to set routes

(00:34:36) – The power of climbing

(00:35:49) – Getting her L5

(00:44:53) – Facing misogyny in routesetting

(00:51:21) – The progression of routesetting

(00:57:57) – Staying up to speed with the trends

(01:00:54) – Coordination

(01:02:34) – Specializing in lead

(01:04:55) – Youth comps & the next generation

(01:06:50) – Longevity as a routesetter

(01:12:10) – A tide shift

(01:18:29) – Molly’s current job & recent injuries

(01:22:08) – An evolving relationship with climbing

(01:24:49) – Finding separation

(01:35:20) – Body dollars & Jiu-Jitsu

(01:39:10) – Moving to Hood River

(01:43:06) – Advice for young routesetters

(01:47:25) – Where is climbing going?

(01:52:14) – Splitting the field

(01:56:17) – “Be less judgemental.”

(02:01:52) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

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EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

25 Touko 1h 1min

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Touko 2h 9min

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Huhti 2h 7min

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, ...

14 Huhti 54min

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first asce...

7 Huhti 1h 46min

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a soc...

23 Maalis 1h 55min

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

Melissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the o...

9 Maalis 1h 30min

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helpe...

23 Helmi 2h 4min

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