Introducing Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast

Introducing Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast

Is it possible to make research and science both more fun - and frankly - more useful for coaches and climbers?

That’s what we needed to answer. Now that we’re a few episodes into recording this podcast, I can honestly answer YES. It takes a lot of work, but yes. Our goal is to do that work for you.

In this podcast, coaches Paul Corsaro and Kris Hampton are getting together in the lab weekly to look at the body of research - both climbing specific and more general sports science - that is often cited by climbers on their quest to improve. We’ll take each study, break it into it’s components, explain it in a way that doesn’t make your eyes glaze over, and then discuss what we find useful and as well as the ways in which these studies are so wildly misinterpreted by damn near every one of us.

Season 1 of Breaking Beta drops on Wednesday, December 8th. Every week for 10 weeks we’ll be getting deep into finger strength, tendon health, creatine, flexibility, climbing specific injury, and more. What the research says, what it doesn’t, and how you’ve been getting it all wrong.

Make sure you’re subscribed, hit the follow button on Spotify, and tell your friends to tell a friend. Particularly that one friend who is always citing his wild misinterpretation of the research. Tell him you’ve got the perfect podcast for him.

Brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning.

Find Kris and our main Breaking Beta content on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/powercompanyclimbing/

Find Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/cruxconditioning/

Get transcripts, citations, and more at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/breakingbeta

If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at https://community.powercompanyclimbing.com

Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

Breaking Beta is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.

Jaksot(28)

Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn From Season 1?

Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn From Season 1?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what they learned from Season 1.  They break down the specifics — from finger strength to injury prevention, flexibility to nutrition — that they’ll be incorpora...

25 Touko 202251min

Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez: Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Pro...

9 Helmi 202235min

Is Creatine Useful for Climbers?

Is Creatine Useful for Climbers?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss two papers that try to clear up the rumors surrounding one of the most popular supplements in sports nutrition: International Society of Sports Nutrition Positio...

2 Helmi 202249min

Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?

Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that dares to touch THE ultimate strength debate climbers love to argue about: Comparison of Climbing-Specific Strength and Endurance Between Lead and Bo...

26 Tammi 202240min

Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?

Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study seeking to determine if there’s really a best way to train on a hangboard: Hangboard Training in Advanced Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Trial a...

19 Tammi 202232min

Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?

Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study examining a type of injury commonly seen in climbers: Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments authored b...

12 Tammi 202247min

How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders?

How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a topic that every climber has to consider during their career - shoulder health - as examined in the study: Impact of 30 Years High-Level Rock Climbing on the S...

5 Tammi 202235min

Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers?

Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that might finally reveal why there are so many former gymnasts who can crush: Flexibility Assessment and the Role of Flexibility as a Determinant of Per...

29 Joulu 202137min

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