EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new film Tropical Lines, climbing hotspots in South America, his current projects, and much more.

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/felipe-camargo

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:17) – Felipe’s intro to climbing

(00:03:43) – Training on a small spray wall

(00:05:54) – Ultimate Beastmaster

(00:08:53) – Becoming the first South American to climb 9b

(00:12:35) – Selling soda to fund his first competition

(00:14:42) – World Championships in Spain

(00:16:17) – Early sponsorships & traveling

(00:19:57) – Signing with Red Bull & TNF

(00:25:45) – Representing South America

(00:26:56) – Papichulo 9a+ (5.15a)

(00:28:33) – Goal oriented

(00:34:20) – “Why do we do this?”

(00:40:30) – Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (5.15a)

(00:41:46) – Full Journey & Perfecto Mundo

(00:44:20) – Training on a spray wall

(00:47:44) – Learning from Patxi Usobiaga

(00:50:56) – Being smarter with training

(00:54:29) – When to specialize

(00:57:22) – Felipe’s training as a kid

(00:59:48) – Tropical Lines

(01:08:28) – Climbing conditions in Brazil

(01:10:26) – Crags in Brazil

(01:14:32) – Hotspots in South America

(01:17:36) – More about Tropical Lines

(01:19:20) – Auto Retrato 9a+

(01:21:05) – The Grand Illusion V16

(01:25:29) – Full Journey 9b (5.15b)

(01:27:40) – El Bon Combat 9b (5.15b)

(01:28:23) – Endurance on the Moonboard

(01:33:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Jaksot(382)

EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading

EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading

Heth Jennings is a Physical Therapist and Functional Medicine Practitioner who has been studying pain for over 20+ years. We talked about where pain comes from, how the brain uses pain to protect us, ...

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Follow-Up: Mercedes Pollmeier — Your Flexibility Questions Answered (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Mercedes Pollmeier — Your Flexibility Questions Answered (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mercedes Pollmeier. I asked for clarifications about the J-Curl and passive stretching, and we tackled P...

29 Huhti 202116min

EP 66: Mercedes Pollmeier — How to Improve Flexibility in 6 Minutes Per Day, and Cycling Your Training

EP 66: Mercedes Pollmeier — How to Improve Flexibility in 6 Minutes Per Day, and Cycling Your Training

Mercedes Pollmeier is a climbing coach with a master’s in human movement. We discussed key stretches for climbers, how to warm up for a limit session, whether or not static stretching reduces power, h...

26 Huhti 20212h 9min

BONUS: Matt Sparks — Earth Day, and the Impacts of Chalk

BONUS: Matt Sparks — Earth Day, and the Impacts of Chalk

In this bonus episode, Matt Sparks joins me to celebrate Earth Day by talking about the environmental impacts of chalk, best practices, and by offering listeners a discount for Pika liquid chalk. Shop...

22 Huhti 202135min

EP 65: Natalie Duran — Ninja Antics, Fear Conditioning, and Living Like a Superhero

EP 65: Natalie Duran — Ninja Antics, Fear Conditioning, and Living Like a Superhero

Natalie Duran is a “Proish Climber”, Ninja Warrior finalist, Guinness World Record holder, television host, actor, influencer, and scientist. We talked about her new rollerskates, growing up with the ...

19 Huhti 20211h 26min

Follow-Up: Jon Glassberg — Sending ‘The Nest’, and Representing for the Big Guys (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Jon Glassberg — Sending ‘The Nest’, and Representing for the Big Guys (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jon Glassberg. We talked about sending ‘The Nest’ (his first V15) and breaking down barriers as a “big” ...

15 Huhti 202118min

EP 64: Christophe Bichet — Climbing As a Metaphor for Life, Finding ‘Why’, and the Awe of Being Alive

EP 64: Christophe Bichet — Climbing As a Metaphor for Life, Finding ‘Why’, and the Awe of Being Alive

Christophe Bichet is a world-class rock climber and a motivational speaker. He was born with a rare blood disorder called Fanconi Anemia and is also a cancer survivor. We talked about climbing as a me...

12 Huhti 20211h 8min

EP 63: Megan Mascarenas — Solving Puzzles, Pole Dancing, and Discovering a New Identity

EP 63: Megan Mascarenas — Solving Puzzles, Pole Dancing, and Discovering a New Identity

Megan Mascarenas is a multiple-time World Cup gold medalist and the 2016 Open National Champion in bouldering. She is currently 23 years old. We talked about her fascination with puzzles, why she reti...

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