EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-jerome

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:12) – Hit & run

(00:04:42) – The recovery process

(00:07:57) – A paradigm shift

(00:10:55) – The Top 100 project

(00:13:23) – A really fun game

(00:17:08) – A healthier relationship with climbing

(00:21:02) – Body type & relationship with food

(00:25:12) – Finger strength & volume as a heavier climber

(00:33:33) – Minimal effective dose

(00:40:59) – Cycling projects & developing

(00:49:02) – A new bouldering area in Utah

(01:00:57) – Documenting new boulders

(01:08:00) – Bouldering in The New

(01:11:47) – Buying a house in West Virginia

(01:32:37) – House swaps & gratitude

(01:37:45) – More about The New

(01:46:09) – Life going forward

(01:50:02) – Summer vibes in The New

(01:53:15) – Best lines in the UK

(01:55:09) – Eric’s career with KAYA

(02:03:19) – Building a database

(02:07:25) – Gamification & misconceptions about KAYA

(02:17:38) – Upcoming KAYA features

(02:21:02) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Jaksot(382)

EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs

EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs

Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, t...

12 Heinä 20212h 2min

Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some ...

8 Heinä 202112min

A Call from Ethan

A Call from Ethan

Ethan missed the Q&A and had a question he wanted to ask me. ⁠

7 Heinä 202132min

EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling

EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling

In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podca...

5 Heinä 20211h 11min

EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing T...

28 Kesä 20211h 57min

Follow-Up: William Woodward — Sailing Stories, Vanlife Tips, and How to Wash Dishes (Teaser)

Follow-Up: William Woodward — Sailing Stories, Vanlife Tips, and How to Wash Dishes (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with William Woodward. We talked about William’s sailing trip to Hawaii, living at sea for a month, being pre...

24 Kesä 202132min

EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show

EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show

Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weak...

21 Kesä 20211h 17min

EP 73: Kyle O’Meara — Favorite First Ascents, Experience vs. Strength, and Sharing the Love of Climbing

EP 73: Kyle O’Meara — Favorite First Ascents, Experience vs. Strength, and Sharing the Love of Climbing

Kyle O’Meara is a high-level boulderer, route climber, and successful climbing coach. He’s a total lifer. We talked about his early climbing and development in the PNW, some of his favorite first asce...

14 Kesä 20212h 38min

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