TBP 008 :: Alex Johnson on Training, Hard Female Ascents, and The Swarm

TBP 008 :: Alex Johnson on Training, Hard Female Ascents, and The Swarm

After many months of trying to find a time that worked for both of our crazy schedules, Alex Johnson and I finally sat down and had a conversation about her climbing, training, eating, and other aspects of her life.

Alex Johnson is an athlete on The North Face team, and she travels the world as a professional climber. She has some V12 ascents under her belt, she's a 2-time world cup winner and 5-time national champ. She's currently living in Las Vegas, but before that she was living out of her RV, following the good weather to her favorite bouldering areas. She spent a lot of time this winter in Bishop trying The Swarm, a V13/V14, which we talk about in the interview.

I've always been a fan of Alex Johnson, and I remember watching her at The Spot competing when she was just a kid really. Her confidence and poise, as well as her incredible strength, have always impressed me.

What We Talked About
  • Her biggest accomplishments and biggest failures as a climber
  • Which training styles have worked for her and which have not
  • What it was like for her to train with the Euros
  • How she's training for Vail this year (it's a secret so don't tell anyone)
  • How her diet affects her climbing (if at all)
  • Whether or not her hard ascents have been downgraded because she's a female
  • How she balances being friends and fierce competitors with Angie, Puccio and the other girls
Related Links Support The Podcast
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  • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen on iTunes
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Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings

Photo

Portrait of Alex Johnson by Forest Woodward

Thanks for listening!

Jaksot(250)

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TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers

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TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

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TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days

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TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

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TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing

TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing

David Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He's been climbing since 1991, and found himself in a bit of a slump ...

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