TBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight

TBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight

About Alli Rainey

Alli Rainey is a long-time climber and route developer, having put up a ton of routes in Ten Sleep Wyoming and boulder problems in Cody, Wyoming. She's redpointed several 14a's in Ten Sleep and done more than 90 5.13s up to 5.13d all over the world. She got into training for climbing a while back when she realized that she wasn't the greatest at steep powerful climbing (not much of that in Ten Sleep) and needed to train to improve.

Since then, she's studied the art and science of training for climbing (rather than climbing to train for climbing) for herself and her clients, and she's successfully expanded her climbing horizons to steeper stuff. I know - I've seen her at the Motherlode in the Red ;)

What We Talked About
  • The most important things for climbers to do to get stronger
  • How everyone's needs are different, and how to train your personal weaknesses
  • Diet and body weight's role in sending hard
  • What to do on your off season, and how she's successfully sent hard routes after only climbing on her home wall
  • A lot more
Related Links Support The Podcast
  • This podcast is made possible by the Training Programs on TrainingBeta. Check 'em out if you need some help sending!
  • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen and Review on iTunes
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings

Thanks for listening!

Jaksot(250)

TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries

TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries

In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury. Once again, Tyler por...

27 Huhti 202258min

TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols

TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and he's a climber who's incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about new research about common finger injurie...

13 Huhti 20221h 37min

TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a

TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a

6-Week Team Training Program Starts April 18th On April 18th, Coach Alex Stiger's 4th cohort of her Team program will begin! This is a group training program that ALSO provides you with a training pro...

6 Huhti 20221h 22min

TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus

TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus discusses the common issue of not having the energy to execute a programmed session. I'm sure you've been at the gym with the intention of projecting routes or doing ...

30 Maalis 202258min

TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan

TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan

TBP 197 :: Lillian Chao-Quinlan, President of Sportrock, on Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 Lillian Chao-Quinlan is a climber in her early 50's who is also the president of Sportrock Climbing Cente...

16 Maalis 20221h 26min

TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection

TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection

Keenan Takahashi is a 30-year-old professional climber who has sent boulders up to V15. Originally from Davis, California, he started out as a skater and transitioned to climbing at about 17 years old...

10 Maalis 20221h 29min

TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger

How to Assess and Improve Your Skill Set in Climbing In the episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she assesses her clients' and her own skill level and then how she helps her clients (and h...

2 Maalis 20221h 27min

TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger

TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger

Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you o...

23 Helmi 20221h 21min

Suosittua kategoriassa Vapaa-aika

nikotellen
antin-matka
sita
the-harlin-show
ihan-oikeesti
unicast
everypodi
eturivi
rss-nikotellen
tahtitehdas
rss-naapurissa
mutsiputki
rss-viihde-media
terkuin-jenna
oral-sex
mysteeripodcast
himocast
kaikkea-hyvaa
teen-spirit
moottoripodi-2