TBP 163 :: Eric Hörst on Training for Climbers Over 35

TBP 163 :: Eric Hörst on Training for Climbers Over 35

About Eric Hörst

In this episode, I talk to Eric Hörst about how older climbers (over 35) can change their training to avoid injury and fatigue while still being as strong as ever. Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the most popular books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12, Training for Climbing, and Maximum Climbing. He's a climber in his 50's who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due to his smart training methods, which he's catered to himself to fit his mature body.

His 2 sons are living proof of his training methods, regularly climbing 5.14's by the time they were each 11 years old. Eric keeps an active blog on training for climbing, aptly named www.trainingforclimbing.com. He also runs the company Physivantage, which sells supplements for athletes.

My New Puppy

I said I would put a photo up of our new puppy (we don't have her yet) and here she is! She's a heeler/border collie mix, just like our other dog. We get her in three weeks and we are SO EXCITED!

Eric Hörst Interview Details
  • How to support recovery
  • How to train when you're over the age of 35
  • Physiological changes that happen as you age
  • How to slow the aging process
  • How to know if you're training too much
  • Why you shouldn't be sore every day
  • The importance of sleep
  • Bloodwork to consider
  • Why your ability to recover declines
Eric Hörst Links Rock Climbing Training Programs

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta…

Jaksot(250)

TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers

TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers

In this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of the ketogenic diet and intermittent fasting for climbers. In my sessions with clients I often get questions about these very popular diet tactics, so...

2 Marras 202229min

TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance

TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance

Kevin Roet is a climbing instructor from the UK who's been teaching workshops on climbing psychology for about 7 years now. He recently wrote a book, Climbing Psychology: Mind Training for Optimal Cli...

26 Loka 20221h 15min

TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing

TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing

You may have heard me say that I've been doing some mental training coaching with Hazel Findlay this year to help with some fears and mental "blocks." Well, it's been so valuable working with her that...

19 Loka 20221h 22min

TBP 215: How We've Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)

TBP 215: How We've Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how our coaching styles, confidence levels, and tactics with clients have changed over the years. Matt and Alex talk abou...

13 Loka 20221h 28min

TBP 214: Matt Pincus's 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers

TBP 214: Matt Pincus's 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers

In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients. He finds that he has really similar converations with many of his clients, so over the ...

29 Syys 20221h 1min

What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance

What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance

In this episode, I talk all about what to eat at the crag and the couple days before going to the crag so that you can have all-day energy and climb hard. I know it's tempting to just not eat all day ...

15 Syys 202228min

TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training

TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and wants u...

31 Elo 202255min

TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing

TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of "endurance" in climbing, and how to train each of them. We go over the anaerobic lactic system (power endurance), the aerobic syste...

24 Elo 20221h 17min

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