TBP 171 :: Training and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn

TBP 171 :: Training and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn

Support the Podcast on Patreon Nutrition and Training Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn

In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour.

Alex is a Certified Personal Trainer, a Performance Climbing Coach, and a 5.13+ climber. She is a coach for TrainingBeta and for Movement in Boulder. She's been training and coaching individuals and teams for over 7 years.

I (Neely Quinn) am your host (more about that in a sec) and I'm a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutritional Therapist who's been working exclusively with climbers since 2014.

In the last couple episodes, Alex has been subbing in for me as host, and while she's a fantastic podcast host, I need her to focus on coaching and creating awesome programs for you, so I'm going to slip back in as your trusty host from now on.

Having her take over for a while gave me some much-needed time to figure out what direction the podcast is going. I did a ton of thinking, researching, and soul searching, and I'm back and I'm psyched! You'll be seeing more episodes every month now that I'm re-stoked. I'll explain more in the episode.

If you're interested in supporting my efforts with the podcast and you'd like to get even more episodes every month in the form of Nutrition Bites (quick episodes on specific nutrition topics) and group Q&A sessions with Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and me, you can join Patreon for that exclusive content.

Q&A Details
  • How to work hangboarding in with a climbing session
  • What the deal is with intermittent fasting and climbing/training
  • An example meal for a rest day
  • On-the-wall exercises to increase finger strength
  • Maintaining fitness during a vacation
  • How to train lockoffs
Show Links

Jaksot(250)

TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers

TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers

In this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of the ketogenic diet and intermittent fasting for climbers. In my sessions with clients I often get questions about these very popular diet tactics, so...

2 Marras 202229min

TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance

TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance

Kevin Roet is a climbing instructor from the UK who's been teaching workshops on climbing psychology for about 7 years now. He recently wrote a book, Climbing Psychology: Mind Training for Optimal Cli...

26 Loka 20221h 15min

TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing

TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing

You may have heard me say that I've been doing some mental training coaching with Hazel Findlay this year to help with some fears and mental "blocks." Well, it's been so valuable working with her that...

19 Loka 20221h 22min

TBP 215: How We've Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)

TBP 215: How We've Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how our coaching styles, confidence levels, and tactics with clients have changed over the years. Matt and Alex talk abou...

13 Loka 20221h 28min

TBP 214: Matt Pincus's 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers

TBP 214: Matt Pincus's 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers

In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients. He finds that he has really similar converations with many of his clients, so over the ...

29 Syys 20221h 1min

What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance

What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance

In this episode, I talk all about what to eat at the crag and the couple days before going to the crag so that you can have all-day energy and climb hard. I know it's tempting to just not eat all day ...

15 Syys 202228min

TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training

TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and wants u...

31 Elo 202255min

TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing

TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of "endurance" in climbing, and how to train each of them. We go over the anaerobic lactic system (power endurance), the aerobic syste...

24 Elo 20221h 17min

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