TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol

TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol

Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol

In the episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (and ourselves) in order to make climbing sessions more effective, and more importantly, for injury prevention.

Once again, Tyler pored over the research and came up with a very progressive way of doing things – much differently than what we're used to. Gone are the days of just warming up for climbing by doing some easy climbing: there's actually a better way.

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I'm going to let his website sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he's not working he's climbing or hiking outside with his family.

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

Tyler's ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I was psyched to hear about this new way of doing things. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.

Other Episodes with Tyler

Tyler Nelson Interview Details
  • Why just climbing easy stuff isn't the most effective way to warm up
  • How to warm up instead using a series of exercises to prep your whole body to try hard
  • How this way of warming up is good for injury prevention for climbers
  • The youth teams he's tested this on have all had great results
  • How to incorporate it into team practice or your own climbing
Tyler Nelson Links

Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

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TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups

TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those videos to teach her clients about their own climbing. You can p...

19 Heinä 20231h 24min

TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance

TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance

Back in April, I published an episode with Thomas Cunningham all about how he trains efficiently as a busy dad and ER physician to be able to send up to 5.14c projects in only 10-15 days outside climb...

13 Heinä 20231h 25min

TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster

TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster

In this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous "checklist" that he uses when he's projecting a route (or a boulder – but usually routes). As a coach, often Matt's job is...

24 Touko 20231h 12min

TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt

TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The "energy systems" we're talking about are po...

10 Touko 20231h 39min

TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing

TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing

Steep Climbing Workshop May 2nd, 2023 Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 2-hour presentation + Q&A on how to train for steep climbing on the wall and off the wall. She'll be using a series of videos and o...

26 Huhti 20231h 18min

TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3

TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3

A couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent and really researched about training, nutrition, and persona...

19 Huhti 20231h 25min

TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins

TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins

In this interview I talk with professional ice and mixed climber, Majka Burhardt, about her new book, More. In it, she describes the transition she went through from being a full-time pro climber to h...

30 Maalis 20231h 10min

TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger

TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger

Climbing Fitness Breakthrough Series Before we get started, Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to increase your overall climbing fitness. She will do 4 weekly 90-minute zoom ca...

15 Maalis 20231h 31min

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