TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol

TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol

Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol

In the episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (and ourselves) in order to make climbing sessions more effective, and more importantly, for injury prevention.

Once again, Tyler pored over the research and came up with a very progressive way of doing things – much differently than what we're used to. Gone are the days of just warming up for climbing by doing some easy climbing: there's actually a better way.

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I'm going to let his website sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he's not working he's climbing or hiking outside with his family.

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

Tyler's ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I was psyched to hear about this new way of doing things. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.

Other Episodes with Tyler

Tyler Nelson Interview Details
  • Why just climbing easy stuff isn't the most effective way to warm up
  • How to warm up instead using a series of exercises to prep your whole body to try hard
  • How this way of warming up is good for injury prevention for climbers
  • The youth teams he's tested this on have all had great results
  • How to incorporate it into team practice or your own climbing
Tyler Nelson Links

Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

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TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers

TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers

In this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of the ketogenic diet and intermittent fasting for climbers. In my sessions with clients I often get questions about these very popular diet tactics, so...

2 Marras 202229min

TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance

TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance

Kevin Roet is a climbing instructor from the UK who's been teaching workshops on climbing psychology for about 7 years now. He recently wrote a book, Climbing Psychology: Mind Training for Optimal Cli...

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TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing

TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing

You may have heard me say that I've been doing some mental training coaching with Hazel Findlay this year to help with some fears and mental "blocks." Well, it's been so valuable working with her that...

19 Loka 20221h 22min

TBP 215: How We've Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)

TBP 215: How We've Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how our coaching styles, confidence levels, and tactics with clients have changed over the years. Matt and Alex talk abou...

13 Loka 20221h 28min

TBP 214: Matt Pincus's 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers

TBP 214: Matt Pincus's 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers

In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients. He finds that he has really similar converations with many of his clients, so over the ...

29 Syys 20221h 1min

What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance

What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance

In this episode, I talk all about what to eat at the crag and the couple days before going to the crag so that you can have all-day energy and climb hard. I know it's tempting to just not eat all day ...

15 Syys 202228min

TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training

TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and wants u...

31 Elo 202255min

TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing

TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of "endurance" in climbing, and how to train each of them. We go over the anaerobic lactic system (power endurance), the aerobic syste...

24 Elo 20221h 17min

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