TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan

TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for his 5.14b project in Wyoming this summer and some mistakes he made along the way.

While Matt is a seasoned coach and climber, he was under some various constraints that made training challenging this year. One of those constraints was that Matt was working at a restaurant and coaching for a total of about 70 hours per week, so his plan needed to be efficient.

The other is that he only had a board to climb on the entire time, and not that much other equipment. He made some mistakes along the way and suffered some consequences, and he'll tell you all about what he learned in this episode.

I think anyone listening to this episode will learn a few things about proper training tactics, whether you have similar constraints or not.

Episode Details
  • What he did (and is doing) to train for his 5.14b project this summer
  • What went wrong
  • How he fit training in to 70+ hour work weeks
  • Injuries/inflammation that occured
  • How he's dealing with those consequences now
  • What he would've done differently
  • What he learned as a coach from his own mistakes
Show Links Train with Matt

Coach Matt Pincus provides training plans to climbers of all levels from anywhere in the world. If you need help with your climbing strength, power, mental game, skills, or tactics, Matt can help you. He will sit down with you over zoom to find out your goals, your available equipment, and time restrictions and then create a month-long plan for you on the True Coach app.

You'll have access to Matt via email and the app for however long you work with him. He also offers one-hour consultations if you just want a few questions answered or to help you build your own training program. Find out more at the link below.

TRAIN WITH MATT Please Review The Podcast on iTunes

Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Jaksot(250)

TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries

TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries

In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury. Once again, Tyler por...

27 Huhti 202258min

TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols

TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and he's a climber who's incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about new research about common finger injurie...

13 Huhti 20221h 37min

TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a

TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a

6-Week Team Training Program Starts April 18th On April 18th, Coach Alex Stiger's 4th cohort of her Team program will begin! This is a group training program that ALSO provides you with a training pro...

6 Huhti 20221h 22min

TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus

TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus discusses the common issue of not having the energy to execute a programmed session. I'm sure you've been at the gym with the intention of projecting routes or doing ...

30 Maalis 202258min

TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan

TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan

TBP 197 :: Lillian Chao-Quinlan, President of Sportrock, on Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 Lillian Chao-Quinlan is a climber in her early 50's who is also the president of Sportrock Climbing Cente...

16 Maalis 20221h 26min

TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection

TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection

Keenan Takahashi is a 30-year-old professional climber who has sent boulders up to V15. Originally from Davis, California, he started out as a skater and transitioned to climbing at about 17 years old...

10 Maalis 20221h 29min

TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger

How to Assess and Improve Your Skill Set in Climbing In the episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she assesses her clients' and her own skill level and then how she helps her clients (and h...

2 Maalis 20221h 27min

TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger

TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger

Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you o...

23 Helmi 20221h 21min

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